THE JOURNAL
Yellowtail crudo with shunkyo radish, smoked avocado and Granada salt at Gotham Bar and Grill, New York. Photograph by Mr Evan Sung, courtesy of Gotham Bar and Grill
As that proverbial nip sees us getting reacquainted with the vagaries of outerwear, all those rooftop and terrace spots rather lose their appeal. Oh yes, ’tis once again the season for grown-up, indoor dining – prime time for a restaurant refresh. Each of our featured cities – New York, London and Los Angeles – boast a veritable wealth of appetite-piquing establishments. Still, navigating just-opened listings seeking a searingly new supper can prove a minefield, not least when one arrives at a barren building site as the heavens open and hanger strikes.
So, whether one hankers after a wood-fire flamed, seafood bonanza as on offer at Angler (LA), a pasta-tasting menu worthy of the most discerning Emilia-Romagnan nonna (and Mr Massimo Bottura), courtesy of New York’s Rezdôra or exemplary ultra-sustainable cookery as plated up by zero waste don, Mr Doug McMaster at Silo’s new London outpost, all that’s left to do this season is read, book, feast and repeat.
LOS ANGELES
Pasjoli
Pasjoli, Los Angeles. Photograph by Mr Wonho Lee, courtesy of Pasjoli
Just shy of a month-old, Chicago transplant Mr Dan Beran’s a la carte debut is fast becoming LA’s most sought-after supper spot. Purposefully designed to feel like it was dreamed up by Mr Wes Anderson, the elegant bistro is a fitting setting for the set-menu maestro of Dialogue’s classic-yet-revelatory contemporary French fare. Already, the roast duck, served table-side on an antique press, is getting serious Instagram love. While the blue crab, cauliflower cream and sorrel, chicken liver brioche and truffle and baba au rhum are also avowed hits.
Lowell Cafe
The first restaurant in the US to be licensed for cannabis consumption, Los Angeles’ zoning laws prohibit the offshoot of the eponymous community of marijuana farms from serving edibles on-site. Instead, punters are able to imbibe their own supply (for a toke-age fee), or take their pick from the on-site dispensary, which covers the gamut from pre-rolled joints to bongs via vape pens. As for the food, it’s not an afterthought – expect a cannabis-attuned menu, featuring the likes of vegan nachos, sticky tamarind wings and cauliflower banh mi.
Angler
Spot prawn at Angler Los Angeles. Photograph courtesy of Angler
Marine life nirvana, Angler is the progeny of Mr Joshua Skenes, best known for parlaying a Mission District pop-up into the three-Michelin-star dining destination that is Saison, San Francisco – and then walking away from it. Having successfully launched Angler (SF), he recently opened the doors to its LA incarnation – promptly amassing raves for exquisitely presented, raw, poached and flame-cooked, sustainably-sourced sea creatures, as well as a cult hit, bleeding raddichio salad – and, natch, the house’s reserve caviar warmed over the fire in banana leaves, served with barbecue banana-peel butter and grilled banana waffles.
NEW YORK
Gotham Bar and Grill
Gotham Bar and Grill, New York. Photograph by Mr Evan Sung, courtesy of Gotham Bar and Grill
After 34 highly successful years under beloved chef-proprietor Mr Alfred Portale, it’s all change at the Greenwich Village stalwart as executive chef Ms Victoria Blamey’s wholly revitalised menu rolls out. With dishes such as charred Japanese eggplant with sea island pea, black garlic, lapsang souchong and pickled chanterelle and tilefish, maine uni, shishito and baby artichoke espelette, the Chilean native seems set to win over power-lunch regulars while amassing a fresh generation of Gotham devotees.
Reverence
Hop Uptown to hit up progressive Californian chef Mr Russell Jackson’s homage to contemporary West Coast dining in all its multicultural glory – a riposte to the dearth of first-rate options in Harlem. Served in the guise of two tasting-menu options (protein-based or not protein-based), the initial five-course offering included the likes of quail egg empanada and black pea heirloom rice from West Coast Koda Farms. NB: there’s a strict no-tech policy – yup, zero content will come of this experience. Prepare to savour it for its own sake.
Rezdôra
Braised rabbit legs, rabbit sausage, sweetbreads and zucchini at Rezdôra, New York. Photograph by Mr Colin Clark, courtesy of Rezdôra
Oh, Rezdôra, you had us at “grandma walking through forest in Emilia” (aka cappelletti verdi with roasted leek, black mushroom puree). This regionally-faithful Italian eatery forms the solo debut of ex-Osteria Francescana chef Mr Stefano Secchi. Happily, it appears to be living up to the world-class hype. If so inclined, there is a five-course, pasta-only tasting menu, featuring Emilia-Romagna staples such as tortellini in brodo and tagliolini ragù. Otherwise, choose your own delectable adventure perhaps encompassing stracciatella with fresh figs, lambrusco puree, walnuts and “dragoncello” and spigola nera with black sea bass, fagiolini, roasted red peppers and hazelnuts.
LONDON
The Betterment
The Betterment. Photograph by Mr Niall Clutton, courtesy of The Betterment
Famed chef Mr Jason Atherton’s latest grand venture is situated in Mayfair’s suitably plush hotel, The Biltmore – right across from his onetime mentor Mr Gordon Ramsay’s Lucky Cat (miaow). Aiming for affordable luxury (for the one per cent), the seasonally-led “theatre of the senses”-themed menu of sharing dishes espouses a global outlook, while making the most of prime British produce. Ember-roasted chicken with trompettes and Albufera sauce and a side of onion flower, chive emulsion came in for particular post-opening praise.
Dandy
The build is ongoing at Dandy’s soon-to-land, community-geared third iteration in Bermondsey’s Maltby Street. Still, given chef and co-founder Mr Dan Wilson’s excellent prior form, and a sample menu split into Snack, Plate and Feast sections that includes assured delights such as sweet and sour donuts with trout roe and creme fraiche, truffled cauliflower with cauliflower cream and brown butter soy and roast trompettes with artichoke gratin and sweet egg – we’ll see you at the launch.
Silo
Rhubarb, fresh spruce and yoghurt at Silo London. Photograph by Mr Matt Russell, courtesy of Silo
After accruing significant plaudits in its initial Brighton location, Silo, the world’s premiere zero-waste restaurant, is on the cusp of reopening in London’s Hackney Wick. The brainchild of sustainable hospitality guru Mr Doug McMaster, Silo 2.0 promises to wholly “close the loop” in food production and omit food miles, packaging and processing wherever humanly possible as it serves a perpetually rotating dinner and weekend brunch menus that venerate both the environment and integrity of the ingredients. Silo’s moreish-sounding sample menu features grilled fantail squid, white kimchi, Douglas fir and Jerusalem artichoke, cashel blue, ruby kraut – and a hugely tempting “everything” option.