Garment labels are critical for dry cleaners to understand the fabric composition and the recommended cleaning process, so don’t cut them off – and find an establishment that inspects them throughout. “It’s rare for a garment to be made from only one material, which is actually a huge problem because that prevents them from being recycled later down the line, but by knowing each fabric that goes into it, you know exactly what programme to treat it with,” says Ms Mathilde Blanc, co-founder of London-based, environmentally responsible dry cleaner Blanc. “Different fabrics absorb water in different ways, so it’s important to know the percentage breakdown of every garment you’re bringing to the dry cleaner.”

“Most times, the care label provides correct processing information, but one of the most common misconceptions is that garment labels always accurately reflect the product, while this isn’t always the case,” says Mr Dan Lewis, area manager at Jeeves of Belgravia. He recommends finding a dry cleaner that has extensive knowledge about fabrications, and that can run tests on your garment should they suspect that its label doesn’t accurately reflect its composition.

The label is just the first step of a more in-depth quality control that should go into each garment that reaches a dry cleaner. “Attention to detail should be critical throughout the whole process,” Blanc says. “The only thing that really matters is the condition of the garment at the end of the process – whether the dry cleaner has handled it properly, and if they haven’t, whether they can provide an explanation as to why they didn’t obtain the desired results.”

The inspection stage, where someone spends a fair amount of time examining the item under all angles, and checks throughout the process, whether it’s cleaning, destaining or pressing, are just as important as the final quality checks. The latter should be carried out against any specific requests, such as de-bubbling or pressed creases.

Being able to ask questions and establishing a relationship with those who first inspect your garment brings a personal and human aspect to a seemingly automated process. “When you bring a garment to the dry cleaner, you need to be able to speak to someone that’ll understand what value that piece holds, and that can recommend alternative processes should dry cleaning not be appropriate, taking into consideration the garment’s history,” says Mr Joe Morgan, of Savile Row bespoke tailors Chittleborough & Morgan.

“I think the personal and human element of a dry cleaner is really important,” Blanc says. “People come in with very expensive clothes, so they’re entrusting you with something quite special. And a good dry cleaner should make you aware of the risks that the process pose on your garment, too – sometimes client come in with things they’ve been passed on by family members, so we have to advise against putting it through the mechanical action of a machine and suggest not to clean it at all in order to preserve it.”

The solvents and detergents being used, the distinction between the two and how they’re applied are among the most important factors to consider when picking a dry cleaner. Several studies have demonstrated that Perc, also known as perchloroethylene and used by over 70 per cent of dry cleaners globally, can be harmful to our health and the environment. Research has shown it’s likely to be a human carcinogen and it can be linked to skin conditions as well as neurological and respiratory issues. And although it’s being phased out or even banned in several countries, such as some US states, Denmark and France, it’s still likely to be the first solvent option for most dry cleaners.

“When searching for a good dry cleaner, you should be looking for Perc-free businesses that use detergents rather than solvents,” Blanc says. “They’re much more gentle on the skin and fibres, and definitely less harmful to the soil once they’re discarded.”

Detergents are classified as bio and non-bio. The former contain enzymes, which help break down the greasy and starchy compounds of most stains, making them more effective on the garments, but also more toxic for those with sensitive skin. The latter don’t contain enzymes, but still have powerful agents that’ll keep your garments clean and fresh, particularly when paired with accurate spot-cleaning or other destaining agents at a higher temperature.

Traditional dry cleaning may not be the best practice for all garments, so try to find a dry cleaner that offers alternative processes, such as wet cleaning, ozone or liquid CO2. Wet cleaning is one of the most environmentally friendly processes to date (it’s based on non-toxic, biodegradable detergents and water, and doesn’t produce any hazardous waste or air pollution) while ozone is a powerful disinfectant, which has been tested and certified by the University of Newcastle microbiology laboratories to eliminate harmful bacteria. It doesn’t involve water, but still removes odours, and can be used on both garments and household items.

Liquid CO2 cleaning is ideal for tackling oil-based stains, yet it’s gentle on delicate garments. It uses high pressure to condensate CO2 gas into a liquid form, but the CO2 used in the process is captured as a byproduct of existing industrial processes, so there is no net creation of carbon.

“Choosing what process to use for a specific garment depends on its history and whether there are stains involved,” Blanc says. “Even two identical T-shirts – from the same brands and made in the same fabric composition – that have been worn by two different people, for instance, will have different history, and will therefore have to be treated in different ways.”

When it comes to natural fibres, such as linen or satin, a dry cleaner might even suggest spot cleaning instead. “Natural fibres are more brittle than other blends, so they tend to be more sensitive to dry cleaning solvents,” Morgan says. “There’s no reason why one shouldn’t dry clean a suit, but if it’s tailored from a high percentage of natural fabrications and it’s only lightly stained, a less chemical process is preferable.”

“If you’re going to think about a circular fashion system, you’re going to have to make your clothes last by finding a good restoration and cleaning partner,” Blanc says. “And one that cares about the environment as much as you do by offering alternative processes, such as wet cleaning, or choosing not to use harmful solvent-based cleaners, such as Perc.”

But how a dry cleaner disposes of its solvents and general waste is just as important. “First and foremost, all dry cleaners should be monitoring their solvent usage and actively disposing of it through the regulated safe disposal companies,” Lewis says.

Garment covers, also known as polyrobes, are widely used in the industry. A good dry cleaner should instead be looking at reducing single-use plastics, as well as having a good recycling programme for cardboard and hangers (which can be returned, sanitised and re-used to minimise waste), and considering fully recyclable, biodegradable or re-usable packaging.