THE JOURNAL
Photograph by Mr Peter Mountain/Universal, Apple Original Films and MARV
What should a spy look like? Hundreds of movies and TV series have suggested that they are always well-dressed gentleman with high-society mannerisms and swanky tastes in women. However, with such a host of cinematic tropes under his belt, British director Mr Matthew Vaughn begs to differ. “In the glamorous Hollywood world, a spy should be the man that every man would want to be,” he says. “In the real world, it needs to be someone that we wouldn’t recognise or remember – someone that disappears into the background.”
But we’d challenge anyone to watch his upcoming spy action movie Argylle, in theatres from 2 February, and not remember its characters – thanks to their pungent personalities or their equally sharp outfits, which are now available to buy at MR PORTER. Inspired by Argylle’s costumes, Kingsman’s new capsule is packed with the kind of well-made, stylish staples that even you, presumably not a spy, can pull off every day.
Photograph by Mr Peter Mountain/Universal, Apple Original Films and MARV
“Argylle is ray of sunshine in a very dark world right now,” Vaughn says. “It’s pure fun and escapism. It has all the tropes that people love in a spy movie, but many moments reinvent what people’s reception of what a spy movie should look like.”
The razor-witted thriller dives into the life of introverted espionage author Elly Conway (played by Ms Bryce Dallas Howard) and her cat Alfie. When the storyline of her books, which follow secret agent Argylle (played by Mr Henry Cavill) and his pursuit to expose a global spy ring, start to mirror the undercover affairs of a real-life security operation, the line between fantasy and reality soon blurs.
Agent Argylle is the cliché gentleman spy, with a beautifully tailored suit and a flattop haircut – “the iconic character of what you think a spy movie should be.” Opposite him, there’s Aidan, played by Mr Sam Rockwell. He’s exactly what a spy should be in Vaughn’s eyes – someone who can enter a room and leave without anyone having a clue on who or what they are. “That’s the fun of it,” Vaughn says. “In every scene, you play the sequence twice, from the cliché spy and the cool anti-hero spy’s perspectives.”
The two agents share brainy ideas, gripping adventures and, naturally, great style. Agent Argylle’s iconic green velvet Nehru jacket is reimagined for Aidan with a paisley pattern. There’s a brand new version of a classic leather bomber, which is updated with corduroy sleeves for Rockwell’s character. And we love a similar version of the Nehru suit – tailored from sand-hued linen – worn by Alfred, played by Mr Samuel L Jackson. There are also two limited-edition Bremont watches – a stainless steel and a jet-black version – worn by the cast.
Photograph courtesy of Universal, Apple Original Films and MARV
Now, for his sixth silver screen-inspired collaboration with Kingsman and MR PORTER, Vaughn wants the costumes – and subsequent collections – to be just right. “When you see someone and what they’re wearing, you have an immediate judgement on who and what they are,” he says. “And it’s the same for characters. I like creating iconic costume moments that people can come back to in real life.”
The capsule, exclusive to MR PORTER, is filled with wearable staples that nod to the 1960s and 1970s: from the Beatles, Mr Steve McQueen and Mr Peter Sellers in Nehru jackets to classic Argyle patterns from the same years, which are found all over socks and knits. The suits are cut slightly shorter with boxy shoulders – “to make them more rock’n’roll” – and brilliantly fulfil Vaughn’s idea of what great tailoring should be. Something that “makes you look good, but makes you feel comfortable, too.” Pieces you can move in – even when cinematic spy chases are a good way off.