What to wear, eat and do – and where to stay.

Not every winter break has to be an epic week-long ski trip or a dazzling slice of winter sun. At this time of year, it’s just as nice to squirrel yourself away somewhere cosy and quiet for a weekend. And for these purposes, the Cotswolds are always a safe bet. What are the Cotswolds exactly? According to the imperatively titled visitcotswolds.co.uk, the name for the area comes from the old English word “wold”, meaning “upland common”, which refers to the gently undulant limestone hills that you are likely to find there. What this ye olde designation doesn’t quite communicate, though, is the distinctly English charm of the Cotswolds’ fun-sized villages, their beautiful stone architecture, the cornucopia of fantastic hotels, shops and more that are to be found in this area of roughly 1,200sq miles. In short, it’s an easy, calming getaway for Londoners, and a more than worthwhile weekend trip for everybody else. Here’s how to do it the MR PORTER way.

If you’ve ever wondered exactly where is the right place to wear tweed, here is your definitive answer: it’s in the Cotswolds, from September to February. Actually, scratch that, you can do it all year round and always fit in here. Because the Cotswolds are very tweedy. The sofas are upholstered in it, the people are covered in it and every other shop is full of it. So why resist? There are ways and ways to wear tweed. If you’re indulging in some country sports (as the locals are wont to do), you’ll probably want to opt for classic and practical options, such as this ingenious GORE-TEX wool-blend tweed jacket from Musto Shooting, and some waterproof boots from the very Cotswolds premium wellie brand Hunter. But thanks to the Mr Wes-Anderson-esque streak in fashion right now, there are also ways to make tweed feel current and urbane. Take this blazer from New York brand Noah, for example, which unites the classic tailoring fabric with a more minimal, neat-fitting design. Or, if you’re feeling a little wary of the whole thing, how about some tweed sneakers from Visvim? NB, at this price point, probably best to avoid stomping around in fields, however tempting that might be.

You could think of the Lygon Arms as the Chateau Marmont of the English Civil War. In the 1640s, anyone who was anyone seems to have been a guest there. Chief among such persons were the whole thing’s key protagonists, King Charles I and Mr Oliver Cromwell, both of whom lend their name to the rooms in which they stayed. (The Charles I suite comes with its own spiral staircase down to the lobby, reputedly a former escape route for the royal guest’s mistresses.) All this might sound impressive enough, but the hotel’s history goes back even further than that. It’s been on this site since 1377. The recent revamp of the interiors in late 2017 does nothing to occlude the building’s historic charm – the enormous 16th-century dining hall (decorated with antler chandeliers and historic artwork from the hotel’s collection) being a prime example – but it also feels tasteful and contemporary, with its moody colour scheme, mix of antique and modernist furniture and series of ultra-cosy lounge-like spaces. And, a vast improvement from the 17th century, it now has a pool and capacious spa building. If you can tear yourself away from its fire-warmed interiors and the charming stories of manager Mr Graeme Nesbitt, you’ll find the setting of Broadway nigh on perfect. In this small, quintessentially Cotswolds village, you can shop from an unbelievably well-stocked deli and take a shortish walk to Broadway Tower, where you can climb to the top and take in a view of 16 counties at once.

There’s plenty of good eating in the Cotswolds, but one of our favourite spots is The Wild Rabbit, a modestly self-described “pub with rooms” in Kingham. A sister venture to Daylesford (well-known for its organic farm, London delis and Haybarn Spa, which is nearby), it offers a menu full of top-quality produce, much of which is grown on-site in the garden. You can book dinner in the main restaurant, but if you’re looking to take things a little more casually, grab a seat at the bar, which, with its roaring open fire, is not too shabby either. The menu caters to all tastes, but is particularly strong on organic meat, so opt for a beautifully aged rib-eye steak and enjoy alongside a bottle of red from The Wild Rabbit’s own vineyard. If you’re with your family, there are long tables available in the restaurant, which also makes it a good (if lavish) option for a Sunday roast.

What with all the fine places to eat and drink (and maybe have another drink, you know, as a nightcap), the Cotswolds can sometimes become a hotbed of over-indulgence. How better, then, to recover than a bracing walk with some spectacular views? The Cotswold Way will take you through many of the area’s most beautiful sights, but if you’re not up for the whole 100-mile walk (what, really?) you can opt in and out at various convenient points along it. A good two- to three-hour segment (conveniently located near another excellent restaurant, the two-Michelin starred Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham) is the Leckhampton Loop. Starting at the bottom of Leckhampton Hill, this circular trail leads you along a high scarp and past Iron Age remains until you reach an incredible, panoramic viewpoint at the top (and another curiosity, a limestone formation called the Devil’s Chimney). The way back is just as good, with former quarry roads creating pleasingly cinematic pathways through the woodland. Incidentally, this would be a great opportunity to take some of MR PORTER’s outdoor gear for a spin. Nudge, nudge.