Double denim is one of menswear’s great dividers. The sartorial soulmate of pineapple on pizza. And maybe that’s part of the fun. “I both condone double denim and also quite enjoy the scathing attitude it sometimes evokes,” says Amy Leverton, author of Denim Dudes, her comprehensive account of denim obsessives. “Double denim works in the same way that denim does in general: through its versatility and universal appeal.”

Whether you want to evoke the ruggedness of a Wisconsin ranch owner or channel serial double-denim wearer A$AP Rocky, there’s a plethora of ways to do it. Here’s how.

Also known as the Texan Tuxedo, the denim jacket-and-jeans look is the most straightforward on the list. To make sure it works well, look for pieces with subtle differentiating details, such as a contrasting collar.

A crisp white tee can also break things up and will always look the part. And to entirely avoid being mistaken for a cowherd – albeit a luxuriously dressed one – opt for a robust pair of loafers.

“The loafer works because it’s unexpected,” says stylist Mark Holmes, whose clients have included Willem Dafoe and LaKeith Stanfield. “I love doing a chunky black loafer and white socks on a double-denim look. No one will accuse you of looking like a cowboy with that.”

When putting together a double-denim fit, pay attention to how the shades of the top and bottom work together. “Either match similar washes together or do something drastically different,” Holmes says. “It will get really tricky if the washes are close, but not close enough. You need something very similar or very different to make it look cool.”

What you want is an outfit that looks intentional, rather than thrown together – a good rule for getting dressed in general. This ain’t your first rodeo, right?

Sometimes, however, looking like a cowboy (at least a little bit) is the goal. For those planning to double down on double denim, KAPITAL is the name to know. The cult Japanese brand does Americana better than most US labels. And just to clear up any confusion, keep things playful with wide-leg jeans and ankle boots. An oversized silhouette will ensure no one thinks you’re on your way to a hoedown.

What can really tie this look together, though, is a statement belt, with a buckle worthy of a spaghetti western. “A great belt or belt buckle is a way to give your look a little nudge into cosplay without embarrassing yourself,” Leverton says. (Read our guide to statement belts here.)

Whether it’s the outline of your wallet in the back pocket or a sun-bleached fade, a good pair of jeans tells a story. “No article of clothing shows its character and age better than denim,” Holmes says.

Still, not everyone has time to invest decades of wear into their jeans. In such situations, distressed denim is a handy shortcut. RRL and Polo Ralph Lauren are both great destinations for jackets and jeans with a pre-faded patina. And Ralph Lauren himself is worth putting on your mood board for some double-denim inspiration. “He looks great in double denim in a very dad-at-the-lake-house-on-a-Saturday kind of way,” Leverton says.

What’s more contentious than double denim? White double denim. In short: tread carefully here. “You don’t want to go full Backstreet Boys,” Holmes warns.

To swerve any unintentional 1990s throwbacks, avoid white sneakers and go for a T-shirt or shoes in tonal shades. “With white denim, it’s good to ground the look with neutrals,” Holmes says. “It helps offset the all-white thing.”