THE JOURNAL
Among the more significant trends to have emerged in recent months is the return of the preppy look. A big hit at recent menswear shows, it’s set to spill over from early adopter to full-blown mainstream status this year, exposing to the TikTok generation the timeless appeal of artfully rumpled Oxford shirts, washed-out chinos, argyle sweaters and deck shoes. But if there’s one garment that has emerged as the torchbearer for this trend, it’s the rugby shirt.
Soft-collared and cut for a relaxed fit, the rugby shirt often gets lumped together with its summery cousin, the polo shirt. Such comparisons are understandable; both are casual shirts, both started out as sportswear and both bridged the gap to become staples of the modern man’s off-duty wardrobe. That’s where the similarities end, though. While the polo shirt was designed for the tennis court, and channels that sport’s air of refinement, the rugby shirt hides a rather more violent past.
“If there’s one garment that has emerged as the torchbearer for this trend, it’s the rugby shirt”
Born in the mid-1800s on the playing fields of Rugby School in England, “rugby football” was one of several forms of football codified at a time when every elite English public school worth its extortionate fees was busy drawing up its own rules for the game. Eton, Harrow, Winchester and Charterhouse all invented their own variants, but none of them made it far beyond the school gates. Rugby, by contrast, grew into a global sport watched by millions.
Modern rugby is made up of two distinct codes, united by a shared ferocity: the fast, turnover-based rugby league and the slower, more tactical rugby union. While both sports can be broadly described as large men chucking an egg-shaped ball around while smashing into each other, there are a multitude of differences that set them apart. Not just in their rulebooks, but in their cultures.
Rugby league, a professional sport since 1895, has its roots in the working-class communities of northern England. Meanwhile, rugby union, which remained an amateur collegiate sport for another hundred years, still holds an association with elite academia.
“It’s the kind of piece you throw on without thinking and suddenly look more put-together”
It is this long-standing collegiate connection that explains the rugby shirt’s status as a preppy, or at least prep-adjacent, style staple popular with the likes of Polo Ralph Lauren. But the secret to its contemporary appeal lies in its dual identity. “Rugby’s known as a middle-class sport, but modern casual style sees it worn beneath C.P. Company jackets, buttoned up to the top, emphasising its working-class connotations,” says Benedict Browne, MR PORTER’s Style Director.
Junyin Gibson, brand creative at heritage menswear brand Drake’s, highlights the rugby shirt’s versatility as central to its appeal. “It feels familiar, a bit nostalgic, but also very current,” he says. “It’s the kind of piece you throw on without thinking and suddenly look more put-together. It’s reliable, flattering and surprisingly versatile, which is probably why so many men end up wearing theirs constantly.”
If you’re not one of those men already, then perhaps a little guidance is required. Here, we’ve pulled together some expert advice on how to wear a rugby shirt today.
01. Embrace prep (or, don’t)
Rugby’s long collegiate history has thrown up rugby shirts in every combination of colours you could possibly imagine, leaving you free to choose one to suit your style. Lean into the preppy aesthetic with a classic striped shirt from Noah or Polo Ralph Lauren. Or keep it contemporary with a single colour.
“There are solid colour options that feel less preppy, if you’re not into that look,” Gibson says. “Wear it with wide-leg trousers, fatigues or denim. Keep everything else unfussy and it becomes just a great, slightly rugged long-sleeve top rather than a prep statement.”
Browne agrees, highlighting a few of the contemporary options available. “Super-oversized versions from the likes of JW Anderson riff on preppy style, but are much more fashion-forward,” he says. “You can throw in some chunky sneakers with distressed denim jeans and it’s suddenly not prep. Or a technical jacket over the top and it feels much more urban.”
02. Zoom in on the details
The rugby shirt was born out of utility, its hard-wearing fabric and tough rubber buttons a response to the bruising nature of the game. Today, these details aren’t just symbols of the garment’s heritage, but indicators of quality.
“The fabric matters most,” Gibson says. “A proper rugby should feel substantial in the hand – that sturdy cotton that softens with age but never goes limp. Then there’s the classic cotton-twill collar and stripes that don’t feel too loud. You want details that nod to its original purpose, even if you’re just wearing it to the pub or the office.”
03. Learn how to code switch
Just as some of the world’s best rugby players have mastered both codes of the game, so should you familiarise yourself with both sides of the rugby shirt’s split personality. At once rugged and refined, it’s a peerlessly versatile garment that lends itself equally well to being dressed up or down, according to Gibson.
“In more dressed-up environments, it works well under a soft unstructured blazer or cotton suit,” Gibson says. “Think of it as a more interesting alternative to a polo.”
In a more casual setting, he suggests keeping things simple. “Honestly, you can’t go wrong with a rugby shirt and a good pair of jeans,” he says. “Collar open, sleeves pushed up a bit, sneakers on.”
As tends to be the case with matters of personal style, it’s not just about what you wear but how you wear it. In this regard, he recommends looking away from the team sport itself and instead to the artist David Hockney for inspiration. “[He] has always worn them brilliantly,” Gibson says. “There’s something refreshing about how unbothered and joyful he looks in one, which is really the best way to wear a rugby shirt.”