THE JOURNAL
Paul Newman, Winning (1969). Photograph by Allstar Picture Library Ltd/Alamy. Steve McQueen in Bullitt (1968). Photograph by Everett Collection Inc/Alamy
There comes a time in every man’s life when he must consider the turtleneck in relation to his wardrobe. Only a few centimetres of fabric separate it from the ubiquitous crew neck, yet there is something deep in our psyches that gives us pause. Is it the ghost of Andy Warhol, telling us we’re not arty enough to wear one? Is it hazy memories of 1990s Christmas movies? Or is it something else that stops us from sticking our necks out, metaphorically at least. What if you’re just not a turtleneck guy?
The truth is you probably are a turtleneck guy; you just don’t know it yet. Thankfully, history has served up plenty of turtleneck guys to take inspiration from. The rollneck dates back to the 1500s, when knights would wear them under their armour. In the 19th and 20th centuries, they became workwear staples for fishermen, dock workers, groundskeepers and the like. Keeping the neck warm without the clumsiness of a scarf was brilliantly functional – and in the world of menswear, anything that is functional eventually becomes fashionable.
By the 1960s, turtlenecks were a symbol of cultural rebellion. Actors like Steve McQueen and Paul Newman made them iconic. Intellectuals such as Michel Foucault and Susan Sontag would wear them in protest of formal, suit-and-tie academia. Artists including Warhol and Lou Reed would identify them with emerging creative movements. And then, of course, there was Steve Jobs, the man who wore an Issey Miyake mock neck with blue jeans while introducing the world to the MacBook, the iPod and the iPhone and, in doing so, created one of the most iconic uniforms of the 2000s.
This is a lot of cultural weight for a garment to carry, but with some pointers, the turtleneck is an opportunity to embrace style history and look sophisticated doing so.
01. Think about the weight, fabric and fit
When building your outfit, you’ll want to look at the weight of your turtleneck. “Heavier turtlenecks tend to be the front man, while lightweight iterations usually play a backing role,” says Benedict Browne, Style Director at MR PORTER. While lightweight garments are great for layering with jackets, heavier knits feel more casual. “My style has become a tad more relaxed and off-duty-like in recent years, so the chunky kind have my attention,” Browne says. “Loro Piana’s heavy-duty cable knits make the depths of winter look like a doddle.”
“Fit is everything,” says Rachel O-Williams, a Personal Shopper for MR PORTER, when it comes to finding a flattering piece. “Skip anything skintight and let your pieces drape naturally – they should skim the body in all the right places.” She also likes the options from Loro Piana and Mr P., which “make layering feel easy, rather than bulky”. Form fitting turtlenecks were frequently seen on Warhol, so if you want to avoid that look, keep the fit a little more relaxed.
The material is another factor you’ll want to think about. “A fine cashmere or merino wool [for lightweight knits] feels more contemporary and refined,” O-Williams says.
02. An evening alternative
The turtleneck provides a great opportunity to give character to a formal look. “I don’t love wearing formal shirts that much,” Browne says. “So, for black tie and eveningwear occasions, I have a silk and cashmere navy rollneck, which I wear with my dinner suit. It’s much more chic, comfortable and cool.”
Sure enough, a light rollneck underneath a blazer, sports coat or dinner jacket has been a staple of Hollywood for decades. “A lightweight knit under a structured blazer works beautifully, especially when you keep the colours tonal,” O-Williams says. Pair charcoal with grey or a couple different shades of brown. Keeping colours in the same family helps texture and form stand out. Complete the look with tailored trousers and your favourite dress shoes.
03. Or keep it casual
The turtleneck was for workers decades before it was worn in any kind of formal or celebrity setting. We can reference that heritage by pairing it with other utility or workwear-adjacent garments.
“I prefer [lightweight turtlenecks] specifically beneath a tailored jacket or suede blouson,” Browne says, the blouson being originally designed for fighter pilots.
The beauty of the turtleneck is that they are often very versatile. “Take The Row’s Ryoko cotton rollneck,” O-Williams says. “It’s got that slightly relaxed neck and easy fit that feels effortless. Pair it with matching tones and a soft-tailored trouser and suddenly you’ve got a look that feels elevated without trying too hard. Swap those trousers for denim and you’re in weekend mode.”
The jeans-and-black-mock-neck look is, of course, synonymous with Jobs, but there’s a lot of room to experiment here, especially when it comes to colour and texture. A.P.C.’s alpaca-blend mock necks are a good place to start.
04. Make the most of more real estate
Because it reaches higher on your neck, a turtleneck naturally has a greater surface area. Whichever colours and textures you pick, there’s going to be more of it.
When layering, “try matching shades for a clean, modern feel,” O-Williams advises. “Or, if you want to add a bit more depth, lean into earthy tones – think browns, beiges and soft neutrals. They bring warmth and subtle texture without feeling overdone.”
Neck chains on the outside of the turtleneck are distracting, so either tuck them underneath or leave them off entirely. Embrace the form and texture of the garment.
05. Grooming makes a world of difference
The turtleneck emphasises the wearer’s face because it naturally draws our attention upward. That is partly why the garment can be so flattering, but it also means your personal grooming regimen is going to come under the spotlight. It pays to stay shaved or keep the beard trimmed and to look after your skin and hair. It’s the best way to get the most out of your rollneck.
The people featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown