Handle With Care: The Jewellery Maintenance Manual

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Handle With Care: The Jewellery Maintenance Manual

Words by Sophie Robyn Watson

10 hours ago

Illustrations by James Albon

They say the best way to show off your jewellery is simply to wear it. But what to do with it when you don’t? Throwing it into any old dish on your bedside table just won’t cut it, especially when your pieces are worthy investments, crafted by artisans and destined to become heirlooms.

If you’re anything like us, you know that even the most delicate pieces often need – and, quite frankly, deserve – proper care. Here, two experts weigh in on how to keep your pieces in good shape for years to come.

01. Heavy metal 101

From classic yellow, white, black and rose gold to sterling silver and hard-as-nails titanium, fine jewellery comes in a plethora of colours and finishes. And, with that, a dizzying number of questions. Do I need to treat my metals differently? James Hudson, Buying Manager at MR PORTER, thinks so. “All metals vary in hardness and porosity, so there is no one-size-fits-all approach to treatment,” he says. “When wearing gold pieces, try to avoid excessive exposure to chlorine.” This can make the metal brittle and prone to breaking, unless it’s purely 24K.

For silver items, his advice is to wear them as much as possible. “Frequent use delays tarnish, but remember, tarnishing is natural, so when it happens, use a silver-specific polishing cloth to keep the surface looking fresh.”

As for plated jewellery? “Try to avoid abrasive clothing and polishes, which can wear the plating thin,” Hudson says.

Titanium is inherently highly durable and scratch-resistant, so keep it away from other metals where possible to avoid abrasions. Rachel O-Williams, Assistant Personal Shopper at MR PORTER, calls out David Yurman’s Sculpted Cable Titanium Diamond Cuff as a unique titanium investment piece. “It strikes that sweet spot between distinctive design and everyday wearability,” she shares.

02. Know your stones

Diamonds are forever. However, turquoise, opals, emeralds, onyx, sapphires and pearls have the potential to last a long time, too. “Experiment with different stones and don’t be afraid to combine sleeker pieces with something more sculptural,” O-Williams says. “The best stacks look like they’ve evolved over time.” However, gemstones and semi-precious beads require particular care to ensure they don’t come loose or lose their sparkle.

What do you do when diamonds become cloudy? “Soak them in warm water and gently brush the stone,” Hudson says. “To avoid cloudiness, where possible, take them off when applying or wearing oil, lotion or soap.”

According to internet lore, a splash of plain gin or vodka works wonders, too, dissolving greasy films or dirt. For coloured gems or pearls, avoid ultrasonic cleaners, chlorine, alcohol, or soaking them at all costs, as these will strip them of their natural oils. “If you need to clean them at home, just wipe them gently with a soft cloth,” Hudson says.

03. Keep it clean

Daily, gentle maintenance is key, so set aside a small toolkit and some R&R time to keep your precious pieces in tip-top shape. Often, jewellery comes with small soft cloths and dust bags, which aren’t just for presentation. Don’t throw them away or shove them to the back of an “everything” drawer. Use them to delicately buff away daily grease or grime and store your jewellery separately in pouches to limit scratches or damage.

Arm yourself with the right tools, Hudson says. “A silver-polishing cloth, a gold-polishing cloth and a cleaning brush are essentials to keeping your jewellery looking as fresh as possible every day.”

Stacking jewellery is an easy way to add colour and shine to your look, but it can lead to damage. “Be mindful when wearing a heavy stack when working out, as the excess movement and sweat can cause more wear,” Hudson says. “Where possible, match your metals, as they will have similar hardness, and know that stones will damage softer metals.” For safety and cleanliness, remove your jewellery before you hit the gym or head out for a run.

04. Travel in style (and safety)

Whether you are stashing your jewellery at home or away, you’re going to need a sturdy box or storage case to safely tuck away your rings, necklaces, bracelets and even your watch at night. “If you’re investing in beautifully made jewellery, it deserves somewhere equally considered to live,” O-Williams says. “A good jewellery box protects your pieces from unnecessary scratches, tangled chains and the inevitable knocks that come from leaving them scattered across a bedside table.”

At the end of each day, take your pieces off and carefully place them into the compartments, one by one. Rapport London, WOLF, Charles Simon and Scatola del Tempo are the brands to know, offering refined storage solutions with cushioned drawers, dedicated compartments and suede-lined watch rolls for your timepieces and keepsakes. Travel-sized versions of these are perfect when you’re on the go. (But keep them in your cabin bag just in case the airline decides to lose your checked luggage.)

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