A Guide To Every Coat You’ll Need This Winter

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A Guide To Every Coat You’ll Need This Winter

Words by Mr Jim Merrett | Styling by Ms Millie Parry

28 October 2024

If your mum was anything like ours when MR PORTER were a lad, she was obsessed with “feeling the benefit”. Which in our household translated to not even thinking about wearing a coat until it was absolutely necessary to do so, and certainly never indoors. A rigidly enforced rule that is scientifically questionable – that’s a hot topic for the colder months – and more importantly, leaves you exposed to being, well, left exposed once the winter really sets in and there’s a run on outerwear. So, while not wanting to contradict an authority such as your mum, our recommendation is to add to bag now. And if you haven’t even started to choose yours, you’d better.

With that in mind, we present our guide to winter coats and how to wear them. It’s a big investment, yes, which is why you’ll want to get it right. It pays to be prepared, as our mum also said.

01. The trench coat

Photograph by Ms Valentina Valdinoci/launchmetrics.com/spotlight

Photograph by Ms Valentina Valdinoci/launchmetrics.com/spotlight

Much like beloved TV detective Lieutenant Columbo, we’re big fans of the classic trench coat. While rival brands claim bragging rights over its inception – MR PORTER stocks Burberry’s signature cotton-gabardine line – no one can question its lasting power. But one thing still bothers us: how do you style it in winter? Well, the key reason this design has stuck around for so long is its functionality. It will take whatever the weather can throw at it. And it lends itself to layering. We suggest a nice toasty knit underneath on colder days, or a scarf thrown nonchalantly over your shoulder.

02. The tailored overcoat

Photograph by Mr Vincenzo Grillo/launchmetrics.com/spotlight

Photograph by The Style Stalker/Blaublut-Edition.com

Ever feel like going to work is like going into battle? As with the trench, the shape of the overcoat owes a lot to its military pedigree, drawing from the greatcoat or watchcoat of the 19th century – so called as it was worn while on watch. To that end, it traditionally featured an oversized collar, to protect against the wind, and ample pockets (legitimately for stashing snacks). It was also fashioned from a hefty woollen fabric. And where the lighter trench often ended around the knee, it would typically fall closer to the floor. This is a coat that should envelop you. Meaning you can wear it with anything – however, choose wisely, as it will tend to dominate your outfit. Clearly, it scrubs up for smarter looks, but don’t shy away from having sneakers peeping out at the bottom. Not for nothing do they call it a greatcoat.

03. The peacoat

Photograph by Ms Valentina Valdinoci/launchmetrics.com/spotlight

Photograph by Mr Nabile Quenum/Blaublut-Edition.com

Never to be outshone by the army, the navy has also long served as a testing ground for menswear – albeit one at sea. The peacoat can be traced back as far as the 1700s, with original details still present today. Shorter than its landlubber counterparts, it is characterised by broad lapels and a double-breasted front, with vertical pockets. Buttons would have been made of wood or metal (now plastic); reefer coats were reserved for officers and boasted golden buttons and epaulettes. A heavy-duty woollen fabric was again used to fend off inclement weather. And while a peacoat might dial back the high-stakes, long-length drama of a greatcoat, it still comes with a bit of swish. Plus, scope for the rest of your ensemble to get noticed. Go up a size and, should it get really bitter out there, consider tucking another coat such as a bomber jacket underneath.

04. The shearling coat

Photograph by Mr Jason Jean/Blaublut-Edition.com

Photograph by Ms Francesca Babbi/launchmetrics.com/spotlight

Think “shearling jacket” and Top Gun might be the reference on your mood board. But what sets sheep skin apart is how warm and cosy, not to mention breathable and flexible, it is. As such, it should be more of a feeling than a designated look. Above, a more directional take on Harold from Harold And Maude. Or try a duffel style as a point of difference, perhaps pulling Paddington into play. Whomever is your cinematic guide, what’s important is this premium material will keep you wrapped up all winter – in a style that suits you.

05. The down jacket

Photograph by Mr Jason Jean/Blaublut-Edition.com

Photograph by Mr Daniel Bruno Grandl/Blaublut-Edition.com

The most recent addition to men’s outerwear rosters is also increasingly the most ubiquitous. And designs first constructed to survive perilous expeditions in the early 20th century’s rush to explore this planet’s extremities have since filtered down to the modern cityscape. But is he dressed for embarking upon K2 or Paris Fashion Week? As ever, with the down jacket, it’s all in the details. The synthetic shell deployed can be adapted in an array of bright colours for maximum contrast – or equally one to match a tonal outfit. Should you be sticking to one shade, a puffer can help break up textured pieces. A final thought to mull over: real down offers a better warmth-to-weight ratio, whereas a synthetic filling more water resistance.

The people featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown