THE JOURNAL

What makes a classic piece of clothing? The obvious answer is that it is timeless and reliable – in other words, a garment that you can buy now and continue to wear for at least the next decade. But what about when the parameters for “classic” clothes changes?
“The classic has become conservative over time, and I think that’s boring,” says Mr Yasuto Kamoshita, the founder and designer of Camoshita. “In the past, Oscar Wilde, for example, had an impact on banal menswear with innovative attire. The same is true for Edward VIII. In order to avoid my favourite classics going obsolete, I always want to incorporate a new sense and create a style that fits the times.”
In an increasingly global world, a style that fits the times is perhaps a hard thing to pin down, but it’s something that Mr Kamoshita does particularly well. In his most recent venture, the Japanese designer has teamed up with Savile Row tailors Anderson & Sheppard to create a capsule collection that takes that idea of classic clothing and distils it into something a little more now. In practice, this means ribbed rollneck sweaters knitted in Ireland, rakish cashmere scarves in subtle patterns and even a selection of woollen blankets.
The thinking behind the collection was all about the tough intersections of how men can dress well today. “It’s about being between classic and formal, and casual or informal. I think keeping the balance between these two diverse elements can be cool nowadays,” explains Mr Kamoshita.
Created with fabrics from the venerated Vitale Barberis Canonico, an Italian mill that was established in 1663, the collection is perhaps the perfect harmony of Italian, Japanese and English sensibility. What other three nations are more famous for their attention to detail when it comes to making clothes?
“Both Anderson & Sheppard and Vitale Barberis Canonico have the combination of business sense and aesthetic values that preserve the good taste inherited through their long history,” says Mr Kamoshita. “But they can also look to the future, by changing what has to be changed, and keeping what has to be kept.” And that’s what makes a classic.