Style Advice From Movies: Five Knitwear Icons

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Style Advice From Movies: Five Knitwear Icons

Words by Mr Tom M Ford and Mr Chris Wallace

12 October 2020

Given that everything was cancelled earlier this year, we can be forgiven for having forgotten how to dress. All the fun, exciting things, such as fashion shows, film premieres and going over to your auntie’s house for a cup of tea, which once provided wardrobe inspo, evaporated, along with our imaginations. And so, we come to the list below, a journey back in time into the film archive in search of seasonal clothing ideas. For many of us, winter is coming, so rollnecks, cable knits and chunky V-necks are very much the order of the day. Step out and steal the looks we like from Fargo, Knives Out, Serpico and more.

01. The Long Kiss Goodnight (1996)

Mr Samuel L Jackson’s wardrobe in The Long Kiss Goodnight is legendary – the 1970s maroons, the white socks, the horsebit loafers – but it is his character Mitch Hennessey’s petrol-green Kangol cap and blazer and acid-yellow rollneck, which is as sharp as his dialogue, that should go down in cinema’s fashion history. No one has ever looked so snuggly and fuzzy while spitting such barbs (screenwriter Mr Shane Black received $4 million for the script), none of which we can reference here. Almost 30 years later, the jokes and the outfits still hit. If you need a little freshener for your autumn wardrobe, Mitch Hennessey is your man, and a reappraisal of this film is never a bad idea.

02. Serpico (1973)

To some extent, every beanie, whether seen in the wild or on the big screen, belongs to an ongoing dialogue with the wool knit cap worn by Mr Al Pacino as the incorruptible New York City cop, Serpico. The insouciant cant, the careless cuff, the way it sort of blooms with his anxiety... Even within a movie simply rotten with exquisite hats – and an actor making a case for best hair in a film, ever – this black beanie, probably picked up at an army supply store on Houston, paved the way for the floppy, expressive skully stylings of the Mr Josh Hartnett of the 1990s, to the furrowed, florid Zissou-esque beanies of the 2000s, and still it keeps us watching the weather, waiting for the temperatures to dip anywhere near to acceptable beanie weather so we can throw one back on.

03. Fargo (1996)

This entry answers the eternal question of what one might wear if one were to fold someone into a wood chipper on a particularly snowy day. This has never been put to our asky@mrporter.com inbox, but if you were wondering, well, now you know. Yes, this is a bit of a spoiler. If you haven’t seen Fargo (if not, why not?), there are countless other occurrences, both grisly and subtly nuanced, to keep you entertained if you decide to tune in to this Coen brothers’ classic. In the meantime, just enjoy the knitwear of two of its main characters, both of whom are accustomed to winter in North Dakota, so should know a thing or two about wrapping up against the cold. Whether you’re more into Mr Steve Buscemi’s yellow rollneck or the cheery, dare we say Christmassy, V-neck being rocked by Mr Peter Stormare, we’ve got a couple of pieces that you might like here.

04. The Royal Tenenbaums (2001)

It is the heavy-gauge nautical knits that rightly get a lot of the coverage within the cosy canon of films set in New York City, but we doubt any outfit in cinema is working so hard to pretend that it and its wearer aren’t the absolute most fun imaginable. With a little nod to the sweater of Ms Chantal Akerman’s Les Rendez-Vous d’Anna and, of course, bearing close resemblance to Mr Wes Anderson’s own favoured fits, Mr Bill Murray’s camel cord suit claims professorial sobriety, but it is his regal purple turtleneck that brings in a little Left Bank beatnik. Fitting, perhaps, that Mr Murray’s character was inspired by Mr Oliver Sacks, the neurologist famed for his book Awakenings and who also wrote a memoir of his adventures with hallucinogens.

05. Knives Out (2019)

We’re a bit reluctant to explore the concept of perfection – ideals are not helpful when trying to make people feel good about themselves. And yet, in this still from last year’s whodunit Knives Out, we see what on first inspection looks like a very good example of a cable-knit sweater. In fact, it is one of the best cable-knit sweaters we have ever seen. We will not use the P word, so let us conclude on this simple thought: we would very much like to look like Mr Chris Evans in his extremely per... leasing sweater, which lends him the dependable air of a man who gets his jumpers from a doting Irish grandmother, but is also quite fun after a few cocktails. When he’s not plotting your demise, that is.

Knit wits