THE JOURNAL

Christian Bale in American Psycho (2000). Photograph by Landmark Media/Alamy Stock Photo
It’s a truism that it’s easier to dress for winter than it is for summer. And that’s particularly true if, like me, you live in Britain. Given our climate, it’s no surprise that our year-round go-tos tend to lean into the safety of British heritage – think blazers, brogues and a swishy coat. Summer? Less tradition, more confusion.
At no time is that confusion more keenly felt than when it comes to dressing for the office in summer. Assuming your workplace doesn’t call for business suits and ties every day – and, if it does, you have our condolences – then summer wardrobing in front of colleagues can be a minefield. Suddenly people start to confuse “smart casual” with “barbeque dad” and introduce T-shirts that they last wore clubbing in 2004. I once worked in an office where being “the first guy in shorts” when the clocks went back was a badge of honour. Don’t be that guy. Instead, follow MR PORTER’S indispensable guide. Behold: the dos and don’ts of summer officewear.
01. Don’t completely lose the plot
There’s actual science behind our tendency to cast off our inhibitions in the summer. Sunshine boosts serotonin, the brain’s “feel-good” chemical, as well as vitamin D levels, which help improve mood and reduce anxiety. Longer days, bank holiday weekends and cultural conditioning means we tend to mark summertime as “fun time”. But the “vacation mode” mindset can play havoc with the dress sense of normally sane people.
“I don’t think your style should particularly change between the seasons,” says David Telfer, design director at English luxury clothing brand Sunspel. “And therefore, fabrics become more important. Switching to more breathable cloths is the way to go. That doesn’t just mean linen. We do a lot of cotton linen now, which doesn’t look quite as rustic, but is still breathable. Travel wools, too.”
02. Do put on a suit
It might sound counterintuitive, but a two-piece suit can be one of the most comfortable, easy and liberating things to wear in summer. It’s also the definition of low effort/high reward. Lightweight wools, linen blends and unlined or half-lined constructions mean today’s suits can feel closer to loungewear than armour. The trick is wearing one with a plain T-shirt or an open-necked shirt.
“If you want to be on your game, put on a bloody suit,” says Oliver Spencer, of the eponymous menswear brand. “It doesn’t need to be a fully structured suit. It can be a very deconstructed suit. But just put on a suit. You’ll feel great about yourself. Turning up to work in tracksuit bottoms is about the worst thing I can ever imagine. That is so disrespectful to everyone.”
03. Do play around with colour
Luxury brands are becoming quietly adventurous with colour, but in a grown-up and tasteful way. This season, menswear brands read less like a list of instructions than a chart from Farrow & Ball. Brunello Cucinelli has tailoring and separates in “grapefruit”, “papaya”, “ginger”, “bark” and “cherry blossom”. TOM FORD and Canali have knitwear in soft pinks . “Our hope with these choices is to come up with something eternal, everlasting,” says Alessio Piastrelli, who works on the men’s style team at Brunello Cucinelli, of this summer’s parade of pigments. “We choose our colours with great care, so that everything is complimentary, and can be worn for years to come. Nature is the ultimate source of inspiration.”
04. Don’t abandon personal hygiene
Summer = sweat, sun and skin exposure. Trim the beard, stay on top of deodorant and maybe tone down the cologne (heat amplifies scent). A good mattifying SPF or face mist is your secret weapon. Fresh skin is always in.
05. Do give knitwear its due
“Knitted polos in summer, whether they’re long sleeved or short sleeved, look really sharp without being too casual,” Telfer says. “The knitted polo shirt worn with a pair of pleated trousers would be the perfect outfit for a smarter office. It’s effortless, but still elegant. And it’s easy to dress up or down.”
Jess Mcguire-Dudley, managing director of John Smedley, agrees. “Experiment on top with tailored polo shirts or crew necks that can be patterned or more vibrant than your usual choices,” she says. “But keep trousers or tailored shorts in a neutral shade to offset this. It will keep the look office appropriate.”
06. Do change your shoes
The single best thing about summer style? The chance to put the heavy soled shoes back on the rack and reach for something lighter. Don’t get pulled into the sandals-with-or-without-socks debate – frankly, they’re both hideous. Minimalist leather sneakers, chukka boots or Tod’s classic Gommino driving shoes are the way to go.
“I love a slip-on,” Spencer says. “I’ve got a tasselled loafer on at the moment. I’m all over them.”
07. Do steal some style inspo from the silver screen
Still not sure? Add some big screen icons to your mental mood board. “Think Jude Law in The Talented Mr Ripley and embrace ocean or neutral shades,” Mcguire-Dudley says. “Sean Connery in Dr No for colour blocking or John David Washington in Tenet, who remains dedicated to his charcoal silver polo neck throughout the orchestrated chaos of the film.”
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