How the French took the ham-and-cheese toastie to the next level – and how you can make your own bistro snack version at home, thanks to Mr Tam Storrar, head chef at Blachette in London’s Soho.

Anyone who has spent an afternoon people-watching in Paris will likely know the pleasures of a good croque monsieur, a perennial bistro favourite that has been around in some shape or form since the early 1900s. For those that haven’t: we’re sorry to inform you that you’ve been missing out. Though this classic French snack may look simple – it’s essentially a dolled-up cheese and ham toastie – its appearance belies the fact that there’s a fine art to getting it absolutely right. The key elements: ham, cheese, bread and a mustard-y béchamel sauce, must all be in balance to create “a nice crunchy outside with a lovely moist cheesy centre” according to Mr Tam Storrar, head chef of London’s Blanchette, a bistro-inspired, tapas-style eatery, which was founded in 2013 by brothers Messrs Maxime, Yannis and Mallik Alary (a new outpost, Blanchette East, on Brick Lane, opened earlier this month).

Mr Storrar has been making croque monsieurs since he was nine years old – in fact, he thinks it’s the first recipe he ever made. At Blanchette, he serves a bite-sized, finger-shaped version of the croque monsieur as a hearty bar snack with a healthy (OK, unhealthy) portion of additional Dijon mayonnaise on the side, almost like a dipping sauce. “We basically make a huge sandwich in a tray, then chill and portion it so you get two fingers of croque that are easy to eat and share rather than the traditional affair which can be a bit messy,” says Mr Storrar. Having tried the result, we can safely say this is recommended grazing. But if you like the sound of this, and aren’t in London any time soon, then you can also give it a go yourself, with Mr Storrar’s recipe below. When exactly should you serve this up? “Any time!” Says Mr Storrar. “It works as a snack, lunch or brunch – when is not a good time for ham and cheese?”

Makes around 10 croque monsieur fingers Ingredients: For the mustard béchamel • 75ml milk • 125ml double cream • 1/2 onion, chopped • 1 sprig thyme • 4 bay leaves • 4 cloves garlic, crushed • 100g salted butter • 75g plain flour • 2 tbsp Dijon mustard • salt and pepper to taste For the croque monsieur • 1 loaf of white sliced bread, crusts removed • 200g smoked cooked ham or air dried ham • 100g cup butter, melted • 300g grated cheddar or emmental For the Dijon mayonnaise • 1 tbsp mayonnaise • 1 tsp Dijon mustard

Method: 1. First make the béchamel sauce by infusing the milk and cream with the herbs and onion on a low heat for 20 mins. Strain. 2. Make a roux with the melted butter and flour, and gradually add the milk mixture, stirring constantly to avoid lumps. Once combined, add the mustard and cook on a low heat for 15 minutes. Season to taste. 3. Preheat the oven to 200˚C. 4. Meanwhile, line a semi-deep tray with greaseproof paper. 5. Using enough bread to fill the tray on one layer, brush one side with melted butter and place under the grill to toast (butter side up). Once toasted, put the bread grilled side down in the tray, ensuring there are no gaps between the slices. 6. Coat liberally with 1/3 of the béchamel sauce and scatter over a layer of cheese 7. Top this with a layer of ham (don’t overlap the ham to much). 8. Toast the remaining bread on one side and spread a layer of béchamel over the none toasted side, placing on top of the ham and cheese, this time toasted side up 9. Coat with a very thin layer of béchamel. 10. Add a final layer of grated cheese and bake in the centre of the oven for 20 mins until golden. 11. Once cooked, chill in the fridge until cold. Once cold, slice into 2-3cm pieces. 12. To serve, pan fry the cut slices in a little more butter and serve with a final dollop of Dijon mayonnaise (mayonnaise mixed with a Dijon mustard).

**blanchettesoho.co.uk **