The Watches We Want Now

Link Copied

4 MINUTE READ

The Watches We Want Now

Words by The MR PORTER team

27 June 2018

How to choose a timepiece that fits your wrist and your personality.

Choosing a watch is a singular business. It is not, after all, an inexpensive item. It represents an investment, not just of money, but also of yourself. You are going to wear a watch on your wrist for some time to come, one hopes, so you need to ensure it sits well with your personality. It must also fit – an essential if frequently overlooked point. It may disappoint some of our readers, but not all wrists are born equal and not every watch will fit every wrist. We engaged the MR PORTER team with a wrist-measuring tape and some impertinent questions and then helped them choose the watches that best fit their wrists, in the hope of helping you do the same.

I could probably manage a 40mm watch if I so wished, but my personal preference is for something a little smaller and vintage-feeling. I’m currently into this example from Weiss. It has a lovely mid-century military aesthetic that’s tough but relatively clean and simple. The modernist, lume-filled hands remind me of a vintage Omega Seamaster, but that doesn’t come with an olive-coloured Cordura strap, and this one does. Why do I care? Because I think this colour would be particularly good to wear with some other bits I’ve got my eye on, namely this corduroy jacket from Aspesi and these dusty-green chinos from Incotex.

My dad has always been an avid watch collector and he passed the passion and tradition on to me and my sisters. When I was looking to invest in my first watch but couldn’t afford to buy it, he kindly lent me a vintage Breitling Navitimer on the proviso that I give it back to him once I was able to buy my own. Little by little, I saved and finally bought my own. I opted for the black steel and black strap Navitimer 8, a MR PORTER exclusive. I have quite a large wrist, so a 43mm-wide watch is perfect for me. It feels sturdy and it is powered by a COSC-certified chronometer calibre, it is made in Switzerland and it feels cool enough to wear every day but sophisticated enough for more formal events, too. The only downside is I will have to give my dad back his.

It dented my male pride somewhat to learn that I’ve got one of the smallest wrists in the office, but it was really only confirming what I already knew. I love the aesthetic of a big watch, I just can’t wear one. Anything larger than 40mm looks ridiculous on me. Enter NOMOS Glashütte’s Metro 38 Datum, a 38mm version of the original. It’s not just the case diameter that has changed. The off-centre power reserve is gone, leaving room for the brand logo to be shifted from 9 to 12 o’clock. The result is a cleaner, more symmetrical watch, albeit one that still has that quirky, Deutscher Werkbund-inspired feel with its knurled crown, wire lugs and syringe-shaped hands. I find myself leaning towards the Stadtschwarz version, mainly because its charcoal-grey dial makes it a better option for formal occasions. You can just picture it peeking out from the cuff of a white shirt.

Having a bigger than average wrist means I can wear a larger watch and it won’t stick out like a sore thumb. I’m a fan of unconventional-shaped watches, which is why the Bell & Ross BR range stands out for me. I love this timepiece’s sporty aesthetic, tough ceramic case and touches of yellow. Oh, and it has a carbon-fibre dial, which is hugely appealing to a motorsport fan like me because it’s made in partnership with the Renault F1 team. Perfect for casual meetings or days in the office, playing around with the kids or adding to your collection, it’s limited to only 500 pieces. Couple this watch with a pair of Officine Generale + Spring Court high-tops and a Le Mont Saint Michel chore jacket and you have the full French look (Bell & Ross is based in Paris, in case you were wondering).

My wrist weighs in at a relatively chunky 18cm, conservatively. It is a disappointing realisation given I always fancied that my wrists were rather good looking, elegant even. But it is not so and I must cut my cloth accordingly. In this case, the thing doing the cloth cutting will be this Zenith Power Reserve. At 40mm, it’s my perfect size. Isn’t it a looker? Its 18-carat rose-gold face could launch a thousand ships, if you ask me. With this exemplary piece I would wear some relatively casual but no less elegant clothes, both in blue, to bring out my eyes, from Maison Labiche and AMI respectively.

Illustrations by Mr Joe McKendry