THE JOURNAL

“The past is a foreign country; they do things differently there” is probably one of the most well-known opening lines in English literature. It’s also, as it happens, a rather apt way of characterising Universal Works’ overarching ethos. Co-founded in 2009 by Mr David Keyte, the brand’s heritage-based collections are largely inspired by those donned by the designer’s father – a baker by trade – in the English midlands during the 1970s. There’s been a lot of talk (some of it from us) about the unlikely rise of so-called “dad style” in recent seasons, a development that’s largely down to Vetements and Balenciaga’s tongue-in-cheek runway antics. Yet resurrecting retro by way of pastiche is not what Universal Works set out to do. Born into what the label calls a “working-class family that loved to dress well”, Mr Keyte certainly takes cues from the past but, importantly, the designer doesn’t seek to replicate them verbatim.
Instead, the collections capture the authenticity and honesty of classic workwear, but update it using more modern fabrics, colours and up-to-date cuts. MR PORTER’s capsule, which hits our virtual shelves today, is chock full of the stuff. There’s an exclusive linen-blend version of the brand’s signature Baker jacket, named for Mr Keyte Snr, which you can choose to pair with some matching tapered trousers or, on warmer days, slightly-wide-in-the-leg shorts. And, continuing the label’s understatedly-summery SS19 Hotel De Luxe theme (imagine a Brummie version of The Grand Budapest Hotel and you’re mostly there), a medley of pastel-toned and patterned open- and camp-collar shirts. Essentially, it’s the type of clobber that any man can pull off with relative ease, while still appearing style-conscious. Yes, even your dad.