THE JOURNAL
Florence, June 2017. Photograph by Mr Adam Katz Sinding
In a sartorial climate where we debate the diminishing of our accessories, no one has hitherto honed in on that trusty stalwart, the belt. iPhones have replaced watches, diaries, pens and all other manner of a gentleman’s accoutrements. Bags have shrunken to what’s now called a belt bag (previously known as a bum bag or fanny pack). And other add-ons such as money clips, cufflinks and briefcases seem antiquated in a world where we hot-desk, pay with our phones and view documents on the Cloud. As one reader asks, is the belt set to go the way of the dodo?
The answer is, rather unhelpfully, yes and no. The stratospheric shift in men’s wardrobes towards a casual, sports-centric style has had a knock-on effect: sweatpants and drawstring trousers have become ubiquitous. Look at the Italian maestro Brunello Cucinelli’s mainstay: the most impeccably made trousers that money can buy, but almost always with a drawstring waistband.
Even on smart chinos and upright trousers that don’t conform to the athletic shape of a sweatpant, drawstring waists take the place of traditional belt loops and buckles, marrying smart silhouettes with a sporty sense of ease. And with it, doing away with the need for a belt.
See also the verve towards more relaxed, louche cuts. While no one wants to be caught with their trousers down, the general move in the direction of looser, billowing forms means that the belt – designed to cinch and tighten – is left redundant. We don’t mean slouched down to show off what your mother gave you (a trend known as “sagging” – which has been outlawed in parts of Louisiana and New Jersey, by the way) but a general undone approach that negates the need for a belt entirely.
Perhaps belts are going the way of your watch: they need to work for their place about your person. Back in 2017, Prada created a cult item in a furry, fuzzy belt that was meant as a statement piece rather than a practical accessory. See also the rise of the Gucci double-G emblem belt, designed to show itself in all its hardware glory.
Current iterations from Off-White (branded and urbanwear-appropriate) and TOM FORD (discreetly luxurious) are, too, designed to be seen. But if you really want to make the case for the belt, take a look at the theatrical street-styling panache of British editor Mr Luke Day, who weighs down his jeans with a cowboy get-up of heavy-duty hardware belts. Still on the fence? We’ll leave it to you to act as a champion for the return of MGM matinée idol-style braces.