How To Tackle Oily Skin (But Still Look Dewy)

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How To Tackle Oily Skin (But Still Look Dewy)

24 September 2020

To the uninitiated, the world of skincare can be… somewhat intimidating. From anti-stress serums to diamond-infused eye masks, there are a lot of products out there to wrap your wrinkles around, and even the most basic Google search can leave you saying “I should be putting an alpha-hydroxy-what on my face, how many times per week?”

To make things even more complicated, the internet has birthed a fresh new set of terminology to learn. “Glass skin”, anyone? What about “dolphin skin”? And blemishless-as-a-freshly-boiled-egg skin? OK, so we may have made that last one up, but the former two are proliferating across skincare-obsessed internet communities (#glassskin has 386k instragram posts at the time of writing). Both are achieved through Korean-inspired skincare routines with numerous steps, intended to create dewy skin that is healthy and hydrated, but somehow never oily.

The idea that we should all have light-reflecting, filter-worthy skin without Facetune is, frankly, unrealistic. But if taking some of these tips can help us get better-looking skin… it might be worth a try, right? For those of us blessed with oily skin already, though, this presents a problem. How can the average man partake in serums, SPF creams and sheet masks, and not come out of it all a bit, well, slimy? With that question in mind, here’s our guide on getting great, dewy-looking skin without ever looking greasy.

01. Use product sparingly

First of all, you’ll want to get your selection of products right. Overloading the skin with oily formulas might seem like the best way to get it looking hydrated, but an excess of product can cause congestion. “Too much oily product and the skin becomes overfilled with oil in the glands, creating irregularities on its surface because of the clogged pores, redness and thickening or puffiness of the area,” explains Marylebone-based dermatologist Dr Joney De Souza. “Your pores will try to pour out that excess oil by naturally opening up and enlarging. The oil in combination with dead skin cells will create a thick mixture that will block the enlarged pore, leading to blackheads.”

This is typically worse in men, as testosterone triggers increased sebum production, so unless your skin is particularly dry, apply any serums and oils sparingly. Depending on the consistency of the product, enough of it to cover the face without leaving any residue is what you should be aiming for.

02. Exfoliate intelligently

One of the most effective things that you can do to get your skin looking fresh is to rid it of pesky dead skin cells. You can achieve this by exfoliating with alpha or beta hydroxy acids (known as AHAs and BHAs), such as glycolic or salicylic acid. Working to remove excess oil and effectively dissolve dead skin cells and impurities without damaging the skin, acid exfoliators are an easy but effective addition to the modern skincare routine. “They make the skin appear more luminous and gives that healthy glow, removing the sallowness that comes with too much dead skin cell [build-up] on top of your skin,” says Dr De Souza.

If acid exfoliants sound like they’re worth a punt, a personal favourite is Dr. Dennis Gross’ Daily Peel. As the name suggests, these portable sets of wipes are gentle enough to be used every day and are a quickfire way to get great-looking skin. Coming in a set of two wipes soaked in active ingredients, the first is used to exfoliate with glycolic acid while the second works to neutralise the acid and nourish the skin. Simply wipe your face with step one, then wait for two minutes before wiping with step two. The result is less oiliness, less redness and more radiant skin.

03. Stay hydrated (with hyaluronic acid)

To the skincare-obsessed, hyaluronic acid is like holy water. A substance that our skin cells produce naturally to retain water, it’s essentially what keeps everything hydrated and wrinkle-free.

“When our skin is young, it has a padded layer where you have the collagen and the elastin that gives the firmness to the skin, and are immersed in a layer of hyaluronic acid gel,” explains Dr De Souza. “Hyaluronic acid can absorb up to 100 times its weight in water – hence the saying ‘drink two litres of water per day for hydrated-looking skin’. You can drink as much water as you like, but if there’s no hyaluronic acid there to retain the water and give that plumpness typical of deep skin hydration, it won’t make a difference.”

Dr De Souza recommends seeking out treatments including superficial injections of hyaluronic acid (look up mesotherapy, skin boosters or Profhilo) or laser resurfacing treatments.

Thankfully, grooming products with hyaluronic acid that you can use at home are also readily available, and are much gentler than they sound. Dr. Barbara Sturm’s hyaluronic serum is an easy go-to. It feels slightly thicker than water, and melts into skin quickly, giving it a lit-from-within glow. Dr. Dennis Gross’ hyaluronic cushion moisturiser is a solid option, too, particularly in the summer, thanks to its light, almost gel-like consistency.

04. Turn to an anti-shine powder

If you’re still suffering from a perennially shiny T-zone or prefer a matte complexion, #glassskin be damned, then consider blotting papers or a powder.

For short-term but undeniable results, try War Paint for Men’s anti-shine powder; it absorbs oil and leaves skin looking matte but not ashy, and each application will last for a good few hours. You’ll need a powder brush or makeup sponge to apply it, but it’s a discreet way to banish any unwanted shine.

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