If your current skincare routine doesn’t go beyond the three steps that someone sold you back in 2005, it could probably do with an update. Enter serums. In recent years, a multitude of them have appeared on the skincare market, and they are widely regarded as a crucial product for skin maintenance by dermatologists and beauty editors, but as yet remain underrated and under-explored in the men’s grooming world. In other words, if you’re not using one in your routine, now’s the time to start. But where to start? We spoke to some industry experts about what a serum is, why you need one in your skincare routine, and how exactly you should go about choosing one.

“Serums are topical products that are formulated to penetrate the skin more deeply than moisturisers and have active ingredients to target specific issues. They often contain antioxidants and nutrients that can repair the skin on a cellular level,” explains the celebrity hairstylist and groomer Mr Mark Francome Painter. Intended to be applied after cleansing in much the same way a moisturiser is, a serum is a quickfire way to give your skin what it needs.

“Not at all,” says Mr Francome Painter. “Serums are very lightweight on the skin so are perfect for all skin types.” 111SKIN’s Y Theorem Repair Light Serum, for instance, is especially formulated for oily skin, and is pumped full of amino acids and niacinamide – it works particularly well on oily skin, absorbing into skin easily and lending it a well-nourished glow without a hint of greasiness.

Serums generally target specific skincare concerns such as ageing, redness, acne scarring and dryness, and so deciding which serum to opt for can take some forethought. If your skin is sensitive and easily irritated, look for something that calms redness, such as Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare’s SuperFoods Stress Rescue Super Serum, which both soothes stressed out skin and locks in moisture. If you’ve had one too many late nights and could do with brightening up a bit, go for Grown Alchemist’s Detox Serum. We’ve heard it works great when trying to hide a hangover.

If you’re still not sure where to start, sometimes an all-rounder is best. For Dr. Barbara Sturm, whose eponymous brand offering currently contains nine serums that each target different skin concerns, from ageing to hydration, there’s no single best answer when picking a serum. “My serums are like my children; I created all of them for a reason and I don’t pick favourites,” she says. “But I sometimes say my Hyaluronic Serum is so fundamental, it is the ‘white T-shirt’ of my skincare line.”

Indeed, the good doctor’s Hyaluronic Serum is a reliable staple, and is admittedly the kind of product that you won’t realise you were missing until you’ve tried it. With a clean, water-like consistency, the serum melts into skin almost instantly, giving it a “lit-from-within” boost. Dr Sturm also touts her Calming Serum as a great all-rounder, because it “calms and rebalances irritated skin and is a wonderful skin soother after shaving, sun exposure, inadequate sleep and exposure to air conditioning or environmental pollution.”

As effective as they are, if you thought you were going to get away with ditching the rest of your routine and replacing it with one single hero serum, Dr Sturm has news for you. “Serums are an absolutely essential part of an effective skincare routine, but they are a complement to, and not a substitute for, day or night creams,” she explains. “Moisturisers should be used in conjunction with serums; they complement each other. Serums add intense hydration and offer additional benefits as they penetrate into deeper skin layers. A good moisturiser is still integral in order to seal and protect the natural skin barrier, hydrate the skin, keep it well-nourished and provide it with necessary lipids throughout the day and night.” Simply wait a minute or two until the serum has absorbed into your skin, then apply your moisturiser as you would normally.

Once you’re au fait with the basics of serums and want to level up to something more powerful, it’s worth exploring further. As well as addressing the areas listed above, there are some impressively innovative serums out there that can do everything from relax your facial muscles to protect your skin from pollution. Aesop’s Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Serum, for instance, creates a barrier that shields skin from environmental aggressors (think city smog) that can make skin look dull or irritated, and works particularly well with oily or combination skin. Dr Dennis Gross Skincare’s Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery serum is one of a growing number of overnight serums that work on your skin while you sleep to resurface uneven texture and leave you looking brighter and well-rested in the morning.

For those willing to invest a little more money into their skincare, there’s one anti-ageing product on the market that promises dramatic results. Natura Bissé’s Inhibit High Definition Serum is a powerhouse anti-ageing go-to that works similarly to botox, penetrating deep into the skin to relax muscles and thereby make fine lines and wrinkles disappear, or at least noticeably diminish. You’ll need to use it regularly to see results and it doesn’t come cheap, but with clinic-level results without having to go anywhere near a needle, we’re sure you can see the appeal.