Some restaurants take years to build up a decent reputation, but others blast onto the scene and command immediate reverence. Not yet a year old, Endo at the Rotunda is a sushi restaurant known for its elevated approach to omakase – courses of sushi selected by the chef – and not just because it’s perched on the eighth floor of the old BBC building in White City. With views of the London skyline and a sushi counter fashioned from 200-year-old hinoki wood, it’s an impressive setting and has already struck a chord with the city’s food scene. Mr Giles Coren, The Times’ food critic, said it was probably “the most perfect meal” he had eaten in a restaurant in 20 years. And with just 16 seats and a reputation that’s steadily growing, the waiting list is understandably a long one.

The man behind the counter is a master sushi chef who honed his sushi-making craft in Japan. Mr Kazutoshi Endo moved from Tokyo to London in 2006 and was head sushi chef at Zuma until late 2015. His debut solo venture is a restaurant designed to take diners on a “sensorial experience”, which may sound lofty, but this is the kind of place where cooking and art tend to blur. So, how did it all start? And what does Mr Endo do to make it all so special? We’ll let the man himself tell you the rest.

We set out to make Endo at Rotunda a sushi restaurant like London hasn’t seen before. I have been blown away by the reception we have received. The hinoki counter is an extraordinary piece of design with an extraordinary history. It was carved from an old tree from the Mitsumine shrine, found in the forested mountaintop of western Saitama Prefecture. The Rotunda was designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma and the restaurant, especially the hinoki counter, stays true to his style of paying homage to Japan.

I began learning my craft in Tokyo with my master 24 years ago, but my culinary journey really began as a child, watching the masterful cutting techniques of my grandfather, who owned a popular local sushi bar. This was where I had my first experience of the art of pressing nigiri [moulding rice]. My grandfather taught me the importance of a close connection to ingredients and their provenance, which is something that forms the cornerstone of my food today.

It takes many years and a lot of skill to become a sushi master. I spent years perfecting the techniques of edomae [traditional sushi making] in Tokyo, which is regarded as the epicentre of the practice, having been invented there more than 200 years ago. Attention to detail is of the utmost importance. Take the rice, for example. The weight, balance and temperature are all imperative to ensuring the perfect harmony of taste and texture.

Working outside Japan for the first time was a big challenge. The culture is very different here in London, and working with unfamiliar produce and ingredients was a real learning curve, but I always choose to embrace challenges. How else can you learn?

I am amazed at how popular Japanese food is in London. When I first arrived almost 13 years ago, Japanese food was gaining in popularity and it seems to grow more and more every year. This does not mean it cannot still surprise and delight. In my opinion, it is one of the most exquisite cuisines in the world.

Our menu is always changing according to what’s in season, so I couldn’t recommend one thing. However, I would always recommend trying a selection of nigiri. I have personal relationships with the fishermen who supply our fish, so I can always ensure the highest quality. Otoro, the delicious fatty belly from the tuna, is my favourite. I also love wagyu beef. Its richness of flavour comes from the softly marbled fat and, in my opinion, is second to none.