What to opt for – and how to get a table – in Ms Danielle Alvarez’s super-seasonal Sydneysider restaurant.

If you want to learn about a restaurant before you book, skip TripAdvisor and speak to a regular. So goes the thinking behind our new series, where we ask our Style Council Members for insider tips on their favourite hangouts. In the first installment, we looked at London’s J Sheekey. Today, we’re travelling to Sydney to take a sneak peek at Fred’s – one of the most respected (and, therefore, popular) restaurants in the city. To try and bag a table, and make the most of its seasonal cooking (and innovative dining room), we picked the brains of architect and designer Mr Nick Tobias.

See Mr Tobias’ Style Council profile here

I’ve been a regular since it opened about a year or so ago as it’s 300 metres from my studio. It’s like stepping into another world – with the ever-present chef Danielle Alvarez working with whatever ingredients she has at her disposal that day. The restaurant itself is interesting – the preparation and cooking is done right next to the diners. It feels like being in someone’s giant kitchen with tables and prep benches alongside one other – a mix of staff and diners. The food is seasonal and super fresh.

There are banquettes scattered around the perimeter but the best ones are closest to the cooking and at the back, so you can look across the whole room and observe the action.

Probably the grilled veal loin chop with chestnut purée. I’m not a big meat eater – I reserve it for special occasions – but going to Fred’s would be one of those occasions. This is a really earthy dish. The veal is so tender and I love chestnut. The roasted onions give it sweetness. Another dish to try is the mozzarella and San Daniele prosciutto. It’s a classic done well.

I’m not much of a drinker, but the aperitifs at Fred’s are stand out. Try the Romate “Don José” Oloroso and the Equipo Navazos “I Think” Manzanilla. There’s a fantastic bar downstairs called Charlie Parker’s, which is definitely worth checking out, too.

I always go for lunch on Thursdays at 12.15pm. That just seems to work for me. Fred’s has been pretty much booked out six-to-10 weeks in advance since opening, so anytime you can get in is worth grabbing.

Anyone I’d like to surprise and delight. Outside, Fred’s looks rather humble – so people don’t expect the scale of the interior. It’s still fairly new and people are discovering something that hasn’t been done in Sydney before. You’ll find serious foodies and people wanting a great time in a fairly secluded atmosphere.

I have a contact. In fact, Justin the owner is a great mate. Look out for him on the pass. He’s been in the business since he was 19. He’s very good at his job (and is always the first to suggest an extended lunch or dinner). But, otherwise, just be persistent. The Merivale booking staff certainly do their best to fit people in where they can – even if Fred’s is booked out.