It’s not easy to turn something as ubiquitous as the penny loafer into a signature piece. But that’s exactly what Henrik Berg and his team at MORJAS have achieved. Despite only being founded in 2017, the Stockholm-based shoemaker has earnt a reputation for crafting high-quality iterations of classic Derby shoes, hiking boots, smart Oxfords and loafers, melding Scandinavian design and Spanish craft, drawing on Berg’s upbringing in both countries.

On a chilly day in Stockholm, we meet Berg at Casa MORJAS, a space that’s as well-appointed as the range of shoes that occupies it, with custom furniture, dark wood panelling and marble counters, a coffee machine whirring at the back of the room and a light dusting of snow falling outside.

“We work with three different design principles,” Berg says, sat in a low-slung leather and wrought iron chair in his flagship store’s entrance. “Our products must be long-lasting, refined and tasteful. We’re trying to make shoes that will stand the test of time, both for design and form and function. We want our customers to still wear our shoes in 10 or 20 years, or even longer.

“If you take the penny loafer, we’re now nine years into the business and it feels more relevant than ever,” Berg says. “It’s by far our most popular style and something that we’re always trying to improve. It was the model we launched with, so you could say it’s the definition of a MORJAS essential.”

Berg points to his own nicely worn-in black loafers. They have been re-soled and recently polished, but, even after six years of weekly use, they look like they have plenty of miles left in them. “What I love about loafers is how versatile they are,” he says. “You can wear them, like I am today, with black corduroy trousers and knitwear, or with vintage denim and a blazer for a more preppy look. Or with full tailoring. We see our friends and customers wearing and styling them in so many different ways and settings. Dress it up, or dress it down, that’s the beauty.”

We make the short walk from the store to the MORJAS office and design HQ, where Berg and the team draw up new designs and ideas. The sun is already beginning to dip in the sky in the early afternoon while muddy snow crunches underfoot. Inside, Berg shows us a series of sketches of penny loafers spread across his Pierre Jeanneret desk (Scandinavians know how to kit out an interior).

“It takes 128 steps for each shoe to be made,” he says. “We use Spanish leather and Goodyear welting. Paying attention to all of those small details eventually adds up to something special.”

Why does he think Sweden punches above its weight when it comes to the global reach of its design and culture? “I once heard from a music producer, who spoke about why we have such a strong music industry,” Berg says. “It’s a combination of two things: the climate we live in and the community. During winter in Sweden, we barely see the light. People tend to retreat into their caves and focus on their craft. Then there is the community aspect, he spoke about strong producers getting together and gaining momentum and pushing things forward, and I think that applies to the design and creative space, too.

“I think we’re fortunate, in all of Scandinavia, to have had a long period of talented creators in art, furniture design and fashion,” he adds. “People who have created a strong sense of taste. There’s a sort of Scandinavian palette that rewards good quality and good design.

“I hope we’re contributing to that in some way.”