THE JOURNAL
Messrs David Schwimmer, Matt Le Blanc and Matthew Perry in Friends (2001). Photograph by Warner Bros/Landmark Media
It’s all well and good dropping hundreds of pounds on new grooming products like a hyperactive sneakerhead spending their monthly wage on Yeezys. But if you really want your Microsoft Teams-weary face to bear the evidence of a truly expert skincare routine, you need to understand the nuances that go into building one. From how to layer certain products to ensuring you’re using the correct formulas for your skin type, here are six insider tips on how to glow.
01.
Do tailor your approach
“This is a process of trial and error for most people,” says Dr Angelo Landriscina, a New York-based dermatologist and TikTok skincare expert (@dermangelo). “All skin types should focus on hydration,” he says. “Look for humectant ingredients such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, which will help hold water within the skin.”
Landriscina recommends all skin types opt for a gentle cleanser. “If you have dry skin, you don’t want to strip it and make dryness worse,” he says. “For oily skin, over-stripping it may result in even more oil production.” Dr. Barbara Sturm Cleanser, which is a light foam, or PETER THOMAS ROTH Water Drench Cloud Cream Cleanser will cleanse your skin without stripping it of moisture.
02.
Do layer your products correctly
“Generally, thinnest to thickest is a good rule to go by,” says Landriscina. “Cleanse, use any toners or essences, then serums, then moisturiser and finally a sunscreen during the day.”
Using the more easily absorbed products first and then locking those in with an occlusive moisturiser or an oil will trap in the moisture, ensuring your skin is plumper, smoother and hydrated.
“You want to make sure that each product in your routines serves a purpose,” he says. “The only truly necessary products are cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen.” Everything else, such as serums and toners, is extra, depending on your skin concerns and what you want to target.
“If you already have a fully built-out routine and want to add a particular ingredient – vitamin C, for example – using a serum is a good way to incorporate it without having to replace products,” says Landriscina.
03.
Don’t overdo it with exfoliants and acids
Exfoliating acids have multiple skincare benefits, such as brightening, smoothing and clarifying, but proceed with caution. “Exfoliants are best used a few times per week at most,” says Landriscina. Too much exfoliating could disrupt your skin barrier, which may irritate your skin, increase sensitivity and cause break-outs. “The best thing to do is listen to your own skin and don’t use more than you can handle,” he says.
For those new to acids, “I like the strategy of using them in wash-off formulas, such as cleansers, which tend to be less irritating, before graduating to leave-on products.” PETER THOMAS ROTH 3% Glycolic Solutions Cleanser is a great way to introduce an exfoliating product into your routine.
04.
Don’t mix retinols with other actives
Retinols and retinoids, which are vitamin A derivatives, are powerful and effective active ingredients. Decades of studies support the claim that they can reverse some signs of ageing as they boost cell renewal and increase collagen production. However, you have to be cautious with your application.
“The only actives you don’t want to mix are retinoids with vitamin C, or retinoids with benzoyl peroxide [which is used to treat acne],” says Landriscina. “The reason for this is that many retinoids are unstable and will be broken up by these ingredients.”
Retinols can be used every day, but when you introduce them to your routine, it’s best to start slowly and then gradually work your way up to five days a week or every day, if your skin can tolerate it. If you have more sensitive skin, perhaps stick to three times a week, says Landriscina. And always apply SPF because retinol makes your skin sensitive to UV light
05.
Do separate actives between AM and PM
Different ingredients work best at different times of the day. “Vitamin C is best used during the day so you can leverage its antioxidant potential while the sun is out,” says Landriscina. Vitamin C is one of the most effective and brightening ingredients. It’s a powerful antioxidant, which aids collagen production and protects the skin from UV damage. It is, however, an unstable ingredient. Using it in powder form, in a product such as Dr Sebagh Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream, will keep it stable.
Most retinol products can be unstable with exposure to sunlight. “Most retinol products are best used at night due to the photolability of retinol,” says Landriscina. A product such as Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Ferulic + Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum will do a great job.
Studies have shown that products that contain alpha hydroxyl acids (AHAs), such as glycolic acid and lactic acid, can increase your skin’s sensitivity to light. So, if you want to have an AHA moment, with a product such as MALIN+GOETZ Resurfacing Glycolic Pads, do it as part of your nighttime routine.
06.
Do wear SPF every day
You don’t need us to tell you that you should wear SPF every day, otherwise UV rays will reverse all those brightening and cell-renewing treatments. “Sun protection is the most important thing you can be doing for your skin,” says Landriscina.
Make sure you apply enough. “About half a teaspoon for the face and neck,” says Landriscina. It should be the last step in your skincare routine and “reapplied every two hours in order to maintain the listed SPF”.
Opt for an SPF30 or more, as that will provide you with higher protection. Try Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare’s SPF30 Broad Spectrum Sunscreen. Don’t forget to apply sunscreen to your ears, the back of your neck and your lips. Aesop’s Protective Lip Balm SPF30 will keep your lips protected throughout the day.