Here’s what the professionals have to say about cleansing twice a day.

Given that most men’s grooming routines are born out of trial and error rather than any sound dermatological advice, the foundational steps that lead to good skin are often overlooked or, worse still, wholly misunderstood. Rather than suffer the embarrassment of washing your face incorrectly (what do you mean you towel-dry?) or render your fancy night cream obsolete by falling asleep on a dirty pillowcase, we’ve unpacked the four cornerstones of good grooming to form the basis of a fail-safe skincare regime.

Washing your face is not quite as simple as it sounds. Soap and water are too alkaline and will disrupt the skin’s ideal pH of 5.5. A face wash might seem like a sensible alternative and yet many of them, especially the kind that create a satisfying foam, have a tendency to dry out the skin with astringent ingredients such as zinc sulphate, calcium chloride, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid. “These can be pretty harsh on the skin and are often unnecessarily drying,” says cosmetic dermatologist Dr David Jack. “They should really be used in moderation, and only by those with oily skin.”

If your skin feels tight or itchy after cleansing, chances are you’re using one of the aforementioned “paint stripper” formulas. Try a cream-based cleanser, such as M.E. SkinLab Cleanser 27, instead as it will moisturise your skin as it removes grime. Whichever format you choose – micellar water, cream cleanser, foaming wash – be sure to use it twice a day. Once in the morning to rebalance your skin’s pH level and once in the evening to remove all the debris your pores have collected during the day.

As for water temperature, always go for lukewarm, rather than scalding or freezing. Contrary to popular belief, changing the water temperature won’t open or seal your pores. It will only cause irritation and possibly rupture a couple of blood vessels in the process.

Even men who have wilfully resisted the grooming movement can’t deny the necessity of something as basic as a moisturiser. Every cell in the human body relies on hydration in order to work efficiently and the skin is no exception. It requires daily watering.

Moisturisers no longer come in a single format and the category has become increasingly difficult to navigate. There are gels, creams, gel-creams, cream-gels, serums and myriad oils in tiny dropper bottles to choose from. Your decision hinges on personal preference as much as skin type. “In my experience, the most important aspects to consider are the finish on the skin and the texture,” says cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting.

“The texture of a product must be impeccable, not sticky or filmy,” she says. To that end, the mousse-like consistency of Perricone MD H2 Elemental Energy Hydrating Cloud Cream is likely to please gentlemen who don’t want the heaviness that comes with bog-standard creams.

And, while creams are more sophisticated than ever, they’re unlikely to do more than rehydrate the surface of the skin, prevent water loss and fix a few superficial problems. Serums, on the other hand, are more targeted in their approach. Their smaller molecular structure allows them to penetrate deeper into the skin, where they can go about the job of retraining cells or providing an intense burst of hydration. In many cases, layering a serum, such as Perricone MD H2 Elemental Energy Hydrating Booster Serum, with a moisturiser will ensure you get the best of both worlds.

Mature or chronically dry skin demands the density of an oil rather than a cream or serum. A well-crafted face oil will be packed with essential fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins but, most importantly, it will trap water in the skin by reinforcing its protective barrier.

The greatest misconception about oils, however, is that they will inevitably lead to blackheads. This is not always true. A well-blended and, crucially, natural formula, such as Dr. Jackson’s 03 Face Oil or Malin + Goetz Recovery Treatment Oil, will rehabilitate skin. Only an occlusive (pore-clogging) oil made from saturated fats will have an adverse effect. Dr Bunting is quick to call out coconut oil – the internet’s curious cure-all – as a popular culprit.

Most men associate exfoliation with face scrubs. These products rely on abrasive agents suspended in a cleansing solution to mechanically slough away the dead cells that comprise the outermost layers of the skin. The ritual of scrubbing may be highly satisfying, but it has become somewhat controversial in dermatological circles.

Depending on whom you listen to, there’s a small chance that the mechanical action of the exfoliating beads against the epidermis can cause micro-tears, making your skin more susceptible to environmental aggressors and, thus, premature ageing or irritation. While over-scrubbing should be avoided at all costs, your average scratch will be superficial and more than likely to heal without scarring. “Any micro injury to the skin surface can activate a pro-inflammatory reaction with some collagen stimulation, and that can be a good thing,” says Dr Jack. In other words, deliberately damaging the skin puts it into wound-healing mode, which ultimately leads to brighter and fresher skin.

Having said that, we’d always advocate a chemical exfoliant, such as Dr Sebagh Deep Exfoliating Mask, over a conventional face scrub. “Chemicals tend to exfoliate in a much more uniform way,” says Dr Jack. “On top of that, there are multiple benefits to natural exfoliants such as lactic, mandelic and glycolic acid. These alpha hydroxy acids act as antioxidants, stimulating the skin’s natural repair mechanisms and collagen production.”

Note that some grooming guides advocate the use of an exfoliant before you shave. While exfoliating will help release ingrown hairs and make them easier to slice, a pre-shave scrub or peel is overkill. “Shaving already provides quite a harsh mechanical exfoliation of the skin,” says Dr Jack. “So adding a [harsh] exfoliant before you shave can cause more irritation than is necessary.” Leave your twice-weekly exfoliant for non-shave days.

Good skin doesn’t hinge exclusively on the products you use. There’s more than enough scientific evidence to suggest that diet plays a central role in conditions that range from fine lines and wrinkles all the way through to psoriasis, acne and eczema.

We’ve espoused the benefits of prebiotics and probiotics in relation to skin health here, but in terms of the foods you need for healthy skin, one needn’t subsist on a boring or restrictive diet. In fact, you need lots of variety throughout the day.

Arguably, the most important components of a skin-boosting diet are omega-3 fatty acids, the “good” fats found in tuna, salmon, flaxseed and walnuts that reinforce the integrity of cell membranes. These membranes aren’t just a protective barrier, they also determine how much water a cell can hold. And, as we established earlier, the more water your skin can hold, the softer and younger it will appear. As a bonus, omega-3 fatty acids also help reduce inflammation, which is a precursor to ageing. If you’re not getting enough from your diet, consider a supplement such as Bodyism Omega Brilliance or Perricone MD Omega 3.

To that end, foods that cause inflammation (simple carbs and sugar) should be reduced because they cause a spike in insulin, which has been associated with premature ageing. In an effort to encourage you to put down the cake, Dr Nicholas Perricone writes in his book The Wrinkle Cure that “sugar is exceptionally damaging to your skin because it attaches to the proteins of collagen, causing [it] to ‘cross-link’. When collagen cross-links, it becomes stiff and inflexible, leading to the wrinkling and stiffness of old skin.”

Finally, a bit of unhappy news. There is a press-friendly factoid about dark chocolate and red wine being good for skin on account of their flavonoid content. Flavonoids are antioxidants that protect cells from free-radical damage and thus preserve a youthful complexion. Unfortunately, you’d have to consume so much red wine or dark chocolate that you’d probably fall into a diabetic coma before you got a flawless complexion.

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