THE JOURNAL

A hill we’re willing to die on is that the autumn/winter wardrobe jubilantly triumphs over its lighter and more vibrant spring/summer counterpart. And this is particularly true when it comes to good, old- (and young-) fashioned tailoring. Tailoring designed and made for the colder months is simply more interesting. Fabrics are richer, denser and more textured. With that comes plentiful, more substantial structure and silhouettes – and isn’t that what good clothes are all about? And while there are some exceptions, the colours and tones are generally more sombre, stark and, of course, autumnal – which arguably feels considerably more masculine and certainly easier to wear.
Admittedly, it’s far too easy to think of wearing a suit in the traditional, knotted-tie sense. And while we at MR PORTER have never turned our nose up at that, we’ve always spearheaded the modern – relatable, easy and softer – approach. Which is to say that we’re behind more relaxed, informal and even unusual interpretations of tailoring.
The AW25 collections underlined this notion. A burst of colour to brighten up a moody suit is a fine way to bring some energy to your wardrobe. The same goes with a longer jacket, which oozes swagger and attitude, throwing off proportions ever so slightly to create a more arresting look. Most importantly, given the fact that tailoring has transcended its constricted parameters, with a rulebook that was thrown out more than a decade ago, mismatched jackets and trousers cast in the same tone unequivocally constitute as suits. As for ties, did they ever really go?
01. The cloth of kings
Other than the fact that one is flat and the other has ridges, the main difference between velvet and corduroy is that the former is exclusively for evening, and the latter is eminently more wearable and can be worn from day into the night.
In their AW25 shows, Paul Smith, ZEGNA and Officine Générale all sent out models wearing tailoring made from corduroy, and this sports jacket from the latter in taupe offers an unconventional spin on the traditional variety with notch lapels on a double-breasted jacket.
Anchored down with Nili Lotan’s high-waisted, straight-fitting trousers, TOM FORD’s elegant Oxford shoes, which is about as formal a men’s dress shoe can get, and a classic watch from Cartier, it’s a slick, sharp look that feels decidedly modern.
02. Separated yet put together
Tailoring can mean and look like many things. It can be a three-piece suit with all the bells and whistles. And it can also be an era-inspired contemporary jacket paired with a contrasting trouser for a relaxed yet elegant look. There is no right or wrong, of course, but we’re particularly drawn to mixing materials, structures and tones, and how the combinations of such can be rather eye-catching.
Enter AMI PARIS. This blazer is cut on the long side – as with many brands this season – and nails 1980s power tailoring with its architecture that helps it take centre stage. Dress it down with white cotton chinos from Brunello Cucinelli, the master of understated elegance, for an easy-going look. The richness of the Mr P. skipper polo adds a dose of warmth – a hot toddy in clothing form to combat the impending winter chills.
03. Think inside the box
One of the many observations we spotted earlier this year was that boxy looks aren’t going anywhere. In fact, they’re perhaps metamorphosing into strong, rectangular looks with longer jackets elongating the overall shape.
LOEWE has championed this silhouette, shunning the traditional structural integrity of classic shapes. It’s tailoring to be enjoyed on a night out, and the key to sporting this boxy blazer is via balancing the proportions. Try wider-fit trousers, in this case from Acne Studios.
For colour and further texture, look to this vibrant camp-collar shirt from the Indian label Kardo. It’s an exclusive design to MR PORTER and part of our Consciously Crafted collection of garments and accessories.
04. Navy, but make it technical
When MR PORTER was founded almost 15 years ago, this outfit wouldn’t have looked out of place, and nor does it now. It speaks to the virtues and sensibilities of traditional menswear – clean and considered styling that looks good on everyone.
Paul Smith has always modernised classic garments, silhouettes and styles, and this single-breasted navy blazer is made from a Green Storm System wool fabric (woven by Loro Piana, no less), meaning it’s fully waterproof, wind-resistant and even breathable.
It doesn’t get more modern than that, yet paired with a navy trouser, shirt and tie, it is to the naked eye a traditional look. It’s the little tricks and tweaks that make all the difference.
05. Black is back (again)
There was a time that black was strictly reserved for funerals. Thankfully, now considered less sombre, it is a mainstay of a modern wardrobe. It might not be the most cheerful, but it’s without doubt the coolest – as many style icons have long proven.
Speaking of cool, Auralee is also firmly in that conversation, as the Japanese label has – to critical acclaim – garnered quite the reputation for how to dress in this modern age through understated fabrications, unusual layering techniques and preppy staples.
To avoid falling into the dark abyss, consider injecting a strong dose of colour – and any colour works with black, FYI. It’s a neat way to make wearing inky palettes that much easier, and less intimidating for your peers.
The people featured in this story are not associated with and do not endorse MR PORTER or the products shown