THE JOURNAL

The golden ratio was was first observed in nature and studied by geometrists in ancient Greece. It has since been applied to fields as varied as art, architecture and music. And – OK, this might be a half-baked theory on our part, but here goes – fashion. Now, we’re not saying that there’s a mathematically proven cheat code when it comes to dressing. But if your top half is actually more like 61.8 per cent, the magic number according to the Fibonacci sequence, then you must be doing something right. Right?
We wonder purely because there must be a reason why a long-sleeved top and shorts works so well. So much so that certain factions within the MR PORTER office have taken to calling it a “power pairing”. A flip on your standard short-sleeved tee and long trousers, these two pieces also seem to just balance each other out. And with that in mind, here are five long-sleeve-and-shorts duos that would have even Euclid trading in his chlamys.
01. The Rick Owens and Jacquemus team up


Draw a pentagram between the stylistic points of punk, glam, Gothic, postapocalyptic and the occult and you have the signature aesthetic of Mr Rick Owens summoned into being somewhere in the middle. (Don’t think the designer himself hasn’t tried it.) What sometimes gets overlooked is the effortless simplicity of some of his work. Also note the trademark Level seam, which runs down the shoulder and back of this cashmere sweater – making for an if-you-know-you-know detail from the cult brand.
You’d expect Mr Simon Porte Jacquemus’ mood board to come from a very different place – specifically the sunnier climes of the rural south of France. But behind the jolly maritime frivolity, a similar clarity shines through. Which might be why these playful tailored knee-length woollen shorts go so well with the sweater above.
02. The Officine Générale and ZEGNA double act


Looking like the TV static used to great effect in Poltergeist, Officine Générale offers a similarly masterful take on black-and-white stripes. (From a distance, it’s fuzzy grey noise, but up close, it really is fine lines.) But it’s the blend of soft cotton and linen of this greyscale tee that really sucks us in.
ZEGNA’s own Oasi Lino collection takes the latter fabric to the next level. Spun in the last remaining European mills, this breezy linen line is entirely traceable, with commitment to social and environmental responsibilities. Lightweight in terms of heft only, these hardy shorts will pair with most items.
03. The KAPITAL and Anderson & Sheppard pincer movement


Historically, the classic Breton tee, or marinière, featured 21 stripes, said to be linked to Napoleonic victories. But there’s another story behind its adoption by the French Navy in the 1850s. The stripes made sailors easier to spot should they fall overboard. It would be inaccurate to say that KAPITAL gives this official account the side-eye – cheeky irreverence might be a better way of framing it. But the smiley faces on the elbows tell their own tale.
As the name suggests, Anderson & Sheppard’s Gurkha shorts also have their own military heritage. Inspired by the trousers worn by elite Nepalese soldiers, they are cut from a lightweight, unlined linen, with double pleats, making them perfect for sweltering conditions. Together they’re a unified force.
04. The Jil Sander and FRAME duo


German designer Ms Jil Sander is celebrated – with suitable restraint – for her signature minimalist aesthetic, which she’s notably stuck with over the years. This brand logo, in the same proudly sans serif typeface since the launch of her menswear line in the 1990s, is as in your face as is gets. Although the military green of this particular T-shirt is worth your attention, soldier. Eyes front, dress right.
Likewise, FRAME has a reputation for fuss-free design. And while denim is at the core of the brand’s offering, its other staples are not to be ignored. Take these straight-leg shorts, cut from a midweight cotton in a versatile beige, with capacious patch pockets for your personal effects.
05. The ZEGNA and John Elliott double scull


Given Henley-on-Thames’ central role within British rowing, you might not need an etymologist to guess how the eponymous collarless shirt got its name. Favoured by rowers because of how easy it was to put on, the rest of us should take note. ZEGNA has put its back into producing this exquisite example, crafted once more from its responsibly sourced Oasi linen. All that effort never looked so effortless.
Speaking of hardworking, these John Elliott shorts come constructed from a robust denim. With a straight-leg cut and faded brown finish, they’ll go with anything – certainly the henley shown above. And once again, the frayed hems and worn-in feel suggest you’re an industrious sort, even if all you did was get dressed.