Why Canali Has Been At The Forefront Of Menswear For 90 Years

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Why Canali Has Been At The Forefront Of Menswear For 90 Years

Words by Ashley Ogawa Clarke

9 October 2024

Luxury doesn’t shout, it whispers – or so the saying goes. It’s an epithet that’s become more pertinent in recent years along with the rise of “quiet luxury”, the trend for high-quality yet non-showy clothing. But few brands can claim to authentically embody it in a way that transcends a faddish buzzword.

Enter Canali, which has been doing just that for, well, quite some time now. This year, the storied family-run Italian tailoring house celebrates its 90th anniversary. Throughout those nine decades, the brand has maintained its standing as an unassailably tasteful menswear label by following an unostentatious approach that might best be described as sophisticated subtlety, steadily building its reputation on looking confidently stylish while never drawing too much attention to itself. It’s a stoic, humble strategy that has proven to be as stylish as it has good for business.

Founded in 1934, the brand’s roots trace back to when Mr Giovanni Canali joined his brother Giacomo’s tailoring shop in Brianza, Northwest Italy, and worked to grow the family business. Following WWII, things were passed onto the second generation of Canali brothers – Giuseppe, Genesio and Eugenio – who sold overcoats before broadening their focus to formalwear. In the decades since, the brand has slowly built its reputation, eventually becoming renowned across the world for its quality and meticulous attention to detail.

Almost a century later, the label has been a key player in delineating the core tenets of Italian tailoring. Defined by a softer and more relaxed approach than their formal-minded British counterparts, but more streamlined than American tailors, Italian tailoring is known for striking the perfect balance between being both eminently comfortable and beautifully smart.

“Making the choice for excellent quality, understated clothes will always quietly set you apart from the crowd”

Though Canali might now be a nonagenarian, it has no intention of slowing down. To celebrate its latest milestone, the brand has created a 90th anniversary capsule collection that draws on the best parts of its exemplary heritage. Now available at MR PORTER, it distills decades of menswear expertise, translating it into a refined selection of clothing that is suitable for all modes of modern life. T-shirts and rugged denim define the more casual end of the collection, alongside sumptuously soft cardigans and sweaters knitted with cashmere or cashmere-silk blends that are sure to add a touch of indulgence to contemporary life.

Then, of course, there are the classic overcoats and tailoring that still remain at the core of the brand, showcasing not only the timeless design but also the innovative textile prowess that have kept Canali at the forefront of menswear. Inspired by fabrics in Canali’s rich archive, the tactile worsted wools on the suiting are lightened for ease and comfort and finished with waterproof membranes on the raincoats to keep you effortlessly prepared for a downpour.

The collection unfolds largely in a simple palette of grey: quietly understated shades of slate and pebble that can be styled with consummate ease and will age as gracefully as the brand itself has done. It provides a neatly packaged nod to the brand’s unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, heritage and classically minded design, all translated into easy wardrobe staples for the modern man that are designed to last forever.

The world is a different place to when Giovanni and Giacomo first launched their small tailoring enterprise, but there are a few things that still ring true. Making the choice for excellent quality, understated clothes – especially at a time when dressing smartly or tastefully is no longer required or expected of us – will always quietly set you apart from the crowd.

In that, Canali remains a rare, trustworthy choice that continues to evolve with the times while never once losing sight of what makes it great. Never a shout; always a whisper.

Shop the Canali collection