A Global Celebration Of Craft And Communities: A Tour Of Our Small World Collection

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A Global Celebration Of Craft And Communities: A Tour Of Our Small World Collection

Words by Mr Chris Elvidge and Ms Molly Isabella Smith

5 July 2021

01.

France

De Bonne Facture is the brainchild of Ms Deborah Neuberg, who cut her teeth in high luxury at Hermès. The brand works with renown independent, often family-owned, ateliers from all over France, each with their own distinct specialities such as tailoring, knitwear and leatherwork. It means that every piece in the collection is crafted using considered materials, time-honoured techniques and responsible processes. De Bonne Facture understands that no product can be perfectly sustainable. That, it says, is a pipe dream – but it does everything it can to adhere to planet-friendly environmental and social practices.

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02.

India

SMR Days is the handiwork of MR PORTER’s very own Contributing Fashion Editor, Mr Dan May. Realising there was a gap in the market for a true men’s resort brand, he decided to create his own postcard-worthy clothes – the sort you can throw in a suitcase and go. For Small World, May has put his mind to a selection of loose shirts and louche trousers, all hand-embroidered in India by skilled craftspeople who are paid a living wage. Indian artisans also work on eleven.eleven/11.11, a new brand with a zero-waste philosophy, as well as Story Mfg.’s printed tees, a first for the cult brand.

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03.

Indonesia

Founded last year by Mr Daniel Mitchell, an alum of London concept store LN-CC, Space Available is a Balinese design studio exploring the use of recycled plastics and biomaterials, such as mushroom mycelium, to create furniture and objects for the home. The brand’s range of sustainably made homewares – which includes everything from incense burners to Technics turntable decks – are made from sheets of recycled high-density polyethylene and have a striking marbled finish, the kaleidoscopic swirls of colour a hallmark of the production process.

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04.

Ireland

Inis Meáin’s isolated location meant we dubbed it “the world’s most remote fashion label” when it first landed on our shores. And ever since we visited the team on its namesake isle in Galway Bay, it’s been a MR PORTER stalwart. Inspired by the rugged Irish landscape and centuries of tradition, the brand makes classic knits in subtle colours and textures using natural materials. For the Small World collection, it has produced a unique selection of striped linen sweaters that are exclusive to MR PORTER.

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05.

Italy

One of the most recent additions at MR PORTER, SSAM was a natural fit for our Small World collection, not least because its name stands for Small Artisanal Manufacturers. The brand was started by Mr Flavio Girolami, the co-founder of the now-iconic Common Projects, to exhibit luxury Italian craftsmanship in all its glory. Its output spans contemporary loungewear, homewares and accessories, including bat sets and a deck chair made from reclaimed deadwood. Also hailing from Bel Paese is R+D.LAB, a design studio with a knack for making thoroughly modern homewares using traditional techniques. The Small World collection is lucky enough to boast some very special indigo pieces, which were created just for us.

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06.

Japan

Named for the French word for “escape”, Japanese brand Échapper specialises in beautifully understated homewares, underwear and basics, such as linen robes, cotton pyjamas and towels sets. The company was developed from the ground up to be as environmentally friendly as possible. As such, everything from the raw materials through to the botanical dyes and even the packaging has been carefully considered to minimise waste. Joining them in the Small World collection is By Japan, a MR PORTER favourite that collaborates with local artisans and artists on stunning homewares, NOMA t.d., a textile and pottery brand with an eclectic aesthetic, and Tokyo-based contemporary menswear brand Auralee, which specialises in crisp, clean (and very covetable) cuts.

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07.

Mali

Providing a steady job to more than 100 women working in Mali’s vibrant textile trade, Cooperative Djiguiyaso has been honoured by Unesco for its important work. Headed up by Ms Aïssata Namoko, a respected textile artist herself, the brand uses traditional indigo dyes, handspins its fabrics (or purchases them locally) and makes all the pigments itself. MR PORTER’s Small World selection of table cloths and throws are all woven from organic cotton.

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08.

Mexico

Chamula is part of a stable of brands run by Mr Yuki Matsuda, one of the fashion industry’s great champions of modern, artisanal craft. He set up this label after travelling through the indigenous heartlands of southern Mexico in the 1990s and observing first-hand the wealth of skilled craftsmanship in the area. Along with traditional huarache sandals, which are made in small quantities by local artisans using naturally vegetable-tanned leather, Chamula also offers a range of beachwear – think Baja hoodies and breezy trousers – that’s made in LA from cotton woven on antique looms in Mexico. Then there’s rrres, a creative studio specialising in handmade wares, which it describes as the “result of a collective work between people, places, cultures and heritage”. A perfect fit for Small World, then.

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09.

Nigeria

Mr Niyi Okuboyejo explores and celebrates his heritage with Post-Imperial, a menswear brand with its roots in his native Nigeria. He specialises in adire, a Nigerian resist-dyeing technique practised by the Yoruba people, and works closely with local artisans to create a range of unique patterns, which can be seen on the brand’s range of short-sleeved shirts. With an equitable business model and a deep respect for local traditions, Post-Imperial is a showcase for Nigerian craftsmanship that feels neither forced nor performative. You can read our interview with the founder and creative director here.

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10.

Pakistan

Keen traveller and ex-SAINT LAURENT staffer Mr Alexandre Sundberg founded True Tribe three years ago. His goal: sharing French textile and luxury know-how with developing countries, whose economies often depend on the manufacture of so-called “fast fashion”. The brand’s colourful range of swim shorts is produced in a workshop in the picturesque Indus Valley region of Pakistan using Econyl, a regenerated nylon fabric made from discarded fishing and various other bits of oceanic litter. It’s a forward-thinking business model that not only benefits the local community, but also results in a far superior product. Everybody wins.

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11.

Portugal

Yes, Portuguese Flannel is perhaps a rather prosaic name for a fashion brand. But when you consider that Portugal has a growing reputation as one of Europe’s premier destinations for high-quality, sustainably manufactured textiles, it begins to make a bit more sense. You can think of it as equivalent to German Engineering, then, or Italian Coffee: it’s good, in other words. However, it’s not a particularly accurate name, since Portuguese Flannel does far more than just flannel. We’ve selected its range of short-sleeved shirts embroidered with palm trees, hula girls, and other tropical motifs for inclusion in our Small World edit.

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12.

Switzerland

Few industries embody the idea of small-batch manufacturing quite like Swiss watchmakers. Bovet – one of the most respected, with the oldest lineage – creates bespoke mechanisms with fantastically elaborate case designs. As part of our exclusive collaboration, the brand has produced 10 limited edition pieces, all hand-engraved by its master case decorators in a swirling, scrolling pattern inspired by renowned tattoo artist Mr Mo Coppoletta.

13.

Tibet

Run by the mother-daughter duo of Mses Kim and Dechen Yeshi, Norlha specialises in woven khullu, the soft layer of down that Tibetan yaks develop over winter as protection from the extreme cold in the Himalayas. The raw material is sourced from nomad cooperatives and woven at Norlha’s atelier in Ritoma Village, Tibet, with the fabric used to make everything from clothes to blankets, throws and cushion covers. Founded in 2007, the atelier now employs 130 people in the area and has had a significant economic impact on the local community.

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14.

Turkey

Founded by globetrotting sisters Msses Basak Onay and Oyku Thurston, BORNN is based in Istanbul, where the siblings grew up, and builds on the storied history of enamelware in Turkey. Utilising time-honoured fusion techniques and traditional materials, as well as unparalleled local knowledge, the plates, bowls and tableware that form part of our Small World collection are hand-shaped and hand-finished by the community’s artisans in unique, modern colours and paint-splattered designs.

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15.

UK

Blackhorse Lane Ateliers has the distinction of being London’s sole manufacturer of craft denim. But that’s not all. It’s also a shared creative space housing art conservators, woven textiles designers and photographic studios, and at weekends it transforms into a restaurant. Along with its efforts to foster a collaborative local community, the brand shows an impressive commitment to sustainability, too. Much of the fabric it uses to create its jeans is woven in Turkish mills, which cuts down on air miles, and it offers a lifetime repair policy to counteract throwaway culture. Over in the west of the city is Mayfair’s George Cleverley, which specialises in the finest footwear. North of the capital, you’ll find Tricker’s legendary sturdy footwear and Emma Willis’ classic handmade shirts. Meanwhile, down south, in leafy Hampshire, there’s Laboratory Perfumes, a fragrance expert making cruelty-free scents and candles in small-batches.

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16.

US

Hemp fabric’s potential as an environmentally friendly alternative to cotton is widely recognised. But it’s only recently that it has begun to shake off its image as a bit of a stoner staple. For that we have to thank brands such as LA-based Jungmaven, which has done brilliant work not only in popularising hemp through its well-made and thoughtfully designed clothes, but also as a campaigner and lobbyist for the regulatory change required for the fabric to be produced in the US. The brand’s effortlessly cool tie-dyed pieces, which are made using water-based pigments, are a highlight of our Small World collection. Fellow LA brand Slowdown Studios, which collaborates with up-and-coming artists to create its rugs, blankets and wall-hangings, also joins the fray. As does Double Eleven, the new sustainable venture from rag & bone’s Mr Nathan Bogle, which uses repurposed military deadstock to make its line. From farther afield, there’s natural grooming brand Tata Harper, thoughtful tailoring firm Stòffa, sustainably minded and long-loved MR PORTER jewellery brand Peyote Bird, too.

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