THE JOURNAL

Pitti, June 2017. Photograph by Mr Daniel Bruno Grandl
Consider the unsung heroes of your wardrobe. From a cotton button-up shirt that is just the right side of oversized to a brushed canvas chore jacket that can be worn three out of four seasons per year, or even just the perfect white tee.
Of course, there are pieces in all of our wardrobes that demand more attention and require more consideration in the styling department – and which likely garner more compliments than their more understated counterparts by virtue of being noticeable. But your true sartorial allies are the ones that you throw on and head out of the house in without a second thought.
As the streetwear scene continuously gathers pace (and, arguably, hogs the limelight, too), there are certain brands that have been silently refining their fits to offer silhouettes that focus on craftsmanship and details over hype. Take British brand Folk’s black cotton-twill trousers, for example, which are cropped at the hem just so and have zipped poplin back pockets for a subtle textural contrast. Or Séfr’s checked woven shirt jacket, that is smarter than the average lumberjack style, thanks in part to a camp collar and oversized patch pockets on the chest.
Séfr is a brand that began life as a vintage shop, founded by lifelong friends Messrs Per Fredrikson and Sinan Abi. The store, which sold second-hand pieces from luxury labels, soon developed into an in-house brand. It’s perhaps natural, then, that Séfr’s aesthetic riffs on classic, everyday attire – sleeveless grandad sweaters and double-breasted coats sit alongside corduroy shirt jackets and short-sleeved summer shirts. Similarly, our edit of British brand Studio Nicholson on site has your casualwear wardrobe wrapped up – think functional cotton T-shirts, sweatshirts and zip-ups that are slouchy without ever being slobby.
A minimalist aesthetic is a narrative thread across all of these brands. And as each proves, understated is far from boring. Precision cuts in the clothing – and a distinct lack of embellishments or overwrought design trappings – means that all of these labels can focus on the colour palette, often using unexpected shades in just the right tones that really bring out the beauty of the pieces.
Ever contemplated just how much your wardrobe needs a mustard-hued shirt? Doubt it. But Séfr’s woven example in a mid-weight fabric proves otherwise. A clean-cut design replete of any pockets, this earthy chartreuse shade makes a summer statement without any hint of comedy – the subtle texture of the thread makes it an ideal companion for light-coloured trousers. And when summer is over, the shade is autumnal enough to be worn under a crew-neck sweater with the collar poking out. De Bonne Facture’s summer collection includes shades of sand and rust that can warm up an outfit, and Studio Nicholson’s dusky rose sweater will have you questioning why you’ve never owned more pink before.
But the beauty of these brands’ clothing is not just in their aesthetic. Each is committed to working with small independent ateliers to preserve and utilise the excellent craftsmanship across Europe. Studio Nicholson crafts wares in the UK, Portugal and Japan; De Bonne Facture exclusively makes its clothes in France. And Story Mfg., founded in London’s East End in 2013 and working with an atelier in the Indian forest, operates a truly sustainable model not only in production, but in fabrication. From the embroidered chore jackets to the baggy-back trousers with sculpted seams, all the textiles are hand spun and dyed using natural vegetable dyes.
The clothes may be quiet, but in both aesthetic and intent, these are brands that have plenty of things to shout about.