THE JOURNAL
Photograph courtesy of Regina Isabella
When it comes to booking that long-awaited, sunshine-filled getaway, you can never go wrong with an Italian sojourn. But while coastal hotspots like Capri, Portofino and Amalfi may spring to mind, finding yourself crammed in with the crowds during peak season is rarely ideal. Thankfully, they don’t call Italy the bel paese for no reason. There are plenty of secluded, lesser-known places that are a little more out of the way and are all the more breathtaking for it. Below, five Italians share the islands where they love to vacation – so all you need to do is pack your bags.
01. Ischia
Photograph courtesy of Rena Ischia
Recommended by Massimo Alba, fashion designer
Nestled in the Gulf of Naples, Ischia is a volcanic island known for its mineral-rich thermal waters, which bubble up from Maronti, a beach on its south side. On the east side, you’ll be able to see the medieval Aragonese Castle and the nearby island of Procida.
“Ischia is an island with a rare soul, which retains an authentic attitude that’s still not completely tamed by tourism and combines tradition with a sense of discovery,” says Massimo Alba, the fashion designer and founder of the eponymous brand.
“When I’m in Ischia, I try to slow down. Time on the island has a different pace. The natural saunas of the fumarole, the very long sunbathing, the walks to Epomeo in the early morning. I often set off to discover other islands or enjoy the beauty of the little things – a swim at sunset, fried courgette pasta, an espresso after lunch.”
Where to stay: Mezzatorre Hotel overlooks a beautiful bay, Punta Cornacchia, just a stone’s throw away from Luchino Visconti’s old residence, Villa la Colombaia. Regina Isabella has breath-taking sea views, while Tenuta del Poggio Antico, up on the hills, offers up warm hospitality.
Where to eat: Jack all’Epomeo, La Vigna di Alberto or Da Peppina di Renato for authentic dishes; Le Fumarole da Nicola for a lunch on the beach and Rena Beach Club for a sunset aperitivo.
02. Filicudi
Photograph courtesy of Daniele Molajoli/Studio Casoli
Photograph courtesy of Daniele Molajoli/Studio Casoli
Recommended by Giacomo Piazza, founder of the creative agency 247 Group
Part of the Aeolian archipelago, just north of Sicily, and of Unesco heritage, Filicudi is just over two hours’ ferry from Palermo. It is also close to other islands worthy of a visit, such as Salina, Lipari and Alicudi.
“Life there is simple, chic but not pretentious, and recalls 1960s Italy,” says Giacomo Piazza. “My favourite thing to do is to rent a small gozzo (a local fishing boat) from I Delfini and find a spot to relax and swim. Otherwise, I enjoy visiting Studio Casoli art gallery or going to Alicudi for the city-wide festa del santo patrono celebration.
“Because Filicudi is so small, you will inevitably blend in with the community and end up at local dinners and house parties with strangers after just a few days.”
Studio Casoli, Filicudi. Photograph courtesy of Studio Casoli
03. Pantelleria
Recommended by Edoardo Monti, art collector and curator
Another volcanic island, Pantelleria is closer to the Tunisian coast than it is to the nearest Italian port. The volcanic rhyolite that covers its 85sq km surface, the trans-Saharan wind-swept terracing of vines and capers and the cultural mix make it a one-of-a-kind destination.
“Pantelleria and its breath-taking views are still relatively unknown to most. There are very few hotels, in fact I have always stayed in a rented dammuso, one of the traditional houses typical of the island,” says Edoardo Monti, the founder of Palazzo Monti.
“You live and breathe nature. A complicated nature, given the peculiarity of being a volcanic island, without beach clubs or sunbeds. A harsh but wonderful sea, to be enjoyed by jumping from the rocks – or even better from a small boat.”
Where to stay: Sikelia and Kirani both offer stylish houses in ancient dammusi dwellings.
Where to eat: Don’t miss Isca, a restaurant that specialises in dry-aged fish.
04. Favignana
Recommended by Roberto Rosolin, art director
Favignana is the main island of the Aegadian archipelago, just 30 minutes’ ferry from the Sicilian city of Trapani. The dramatic cliffs and clear waters make its Cala Rossa bay one of the most beautiful in Sicily. Until the 1940s, it was one of the highest producers of bluefin tuna in the world, so expect excellent food centred around this ingredient.
“Spending time in Favignana feels like stepping back in time,” says Roberto Rosolin, the art director at London’s Fabric nightclub. “Life moves at the pace of the sea – calm and full of quiet beauty. I love the fact that you can cycle from a beach to another in a single day.
“Shoulder season is when you can enjoy Favignana to the fullest – I’d recommend going either in May/June or September/early October.”
Where to stay: Dimora Cala Del Pozzo overlooks the sea and has maintained the identity of a typical 19th-century rural house, while Dimora Dell’Olivastro immerses visitors in nature and rustic hospitality.
Where to eat: Sotto Sale uses the freshest ingredients from the island for a fish-centric experience; its more relaxed sister restaurant, Osteria del Sotto Sale, celebrates the simplicity of Mediterranean cuisine.
05. Ponza
Recommended by Emma Pradella, Brand Partnership and Marketing Editor, MR PORTER
The biggest of the Pontine islands – despite its just-under three-square-mile surface – Ponza lies on remains of a caldera rim of an extinct volcano. It features a rocky coastline made of kaolin and tuff, which makes the sea exceptionally clear.
Just under two hours from Rome, Ponza retains that old-time charm typical of an island, but its three small villages, Ponza, Santa Maria and Le Forna, offer a lively atmosphere and a welcome change of scenery.
My ideal day in Ponza consists of getting a take-away bite from a pizzeria along the port and renting a speedboat (with a skipper, if you don’t have a nautical license) to reach the nearby, nearly untouched island of Palmarola in just under an hour. Stop to swim along the small coves, bays and inlets such as Cala Francese and Le Cattedrali, a series of overhanging cliffs that you can snorkel through.
Where to stay: Villa Laetitia, a Bourbon residence owned and renovated by Anna Fendi; Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla and its terraced pools are close to most amenities, while Torre Dei Borboni is a stone’s throw from the must-see Pilato grottos.
Where to eat: Michelin-starred Acqua Pazza or EEA for finer dining, or A Casa di Assunta for a more relaxed evening; Le Terrazze, in Hotel Chiaia di Luna, for an aperitivo over the island’s most fascinating beach.