For PIACENZA 1733, Spring Style Begins With A Polo

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BESPOKE FEATURE

For PIACENZA 1733, Spring Style Begins With A Polo

Words by Tom M Ford

10 March 2025

What’s in a humble polo shirt? If it was made by PIACENZA 1733, it’s a lot more than some cotton thread and a few grass stains – it’s a piece of history. Life for a PIACENZA 1733 polo began around three centuries ago, when one of the oldest fabric manufacturers was founded in Pollone. It’s neighbouring city, Biella, has form when it comes to fabric. Located in the northern Italian region of Piedmont, within chanting distance of the holy Sacred Mount of Oropa, it lies between the foothills of the Alps and the Po Valley – a steady flow of rivers and streams resulting in a wool manufacturing industry that burgeoned in the 1300s and is now, unsurprisingly, internationally renowned.

Indeed, the Piacenza family have been wool merchants since the 17th century and PIACENZA 1733 has been family run for 14 generations. Lots of big numbers, but one clear goal: create the finest knitwear known to humankind, using raw materials, precious blends and noble fibres.

It is not just local geography that has been on PIACENZA 1733’s side in this mission. The family has been intrepid risk-takers and pioneers throughout its history. At the start of the 19th century, a certain Carlo Antonio, known as the “enlightened entrepreneur”, was the first to introduce striped and checkered patterned fabrics in Italy, earning a gold medal at the Turin Exposition.

But the Piacenza family didn’t stop there. At the turn of the 20th century, the brand realised that fine fabrics could be sourced well outside the confines of Biella. So, they travelled the globe, becoming inspired by goat fur wearing Sherpas and the camels of the Berbers.

This worldly sentiment carries on today, with Alashan cashmere from Mongolia, Northumberland blueface sheep wool and Australian merino wool all informing the time-honoured process back in the family’s Biella mill – spinning with worsted yarns, dyeing in melange colour and brushing with thistle flowers to create ethereal softness.

“More than just a spring style staple – 300 years of rich history, exploration and meticulous process”

So, that’s what’s in a PIACENZA 1733 polo. More than just a spring style staple – 300 years of rich history, exploration and meticulous process. The pointelle knit is crafted from 55 per cent silk and 45 per cent cotton, in intricate, fashion-forward patterns that can only be created by skilled knitters and weavers. The burnt orange intreccio is made with a similarly luxurious blend.

Both pieces are indicative of the new SS25 collection, which is available on MR PORTER now, and exemplifies a certain bohemian charm. An eccentric allure that leans on old-world aesthetics. That’s where a legacy of travel comes in, for crafting free-spirited, artisanal elegance.

You can see it in full-stitch knits in ultra-fine merino wool and silk-cashmere blends. It’s there in three-dimensional textures and openwork patterns crafted from silk and cotton blends, with striking two-tone effects. Jacquard knits feature ikat, stripes, argyle and pied de poule motifs for an interplay of light, colour and texture. The colour palette – rich in saffron, amber, mint, jade and antique pink – highlights the theme of nostalgia, sophistication and worldliness, styled for a contemporary aesthete.

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