During a chilly spell this January, Braemar recorded the coldest temperature Britain had felt for seven years (a “pure baltic” -14.4C). In the middle of this little Aberdeenshire village, though, The Fife Arms was basking in a warm glow of satisfaction. The _Financial Times _had just called it “Scotland’s hottest hotel”. Condé Nast Traveler deemed it one of the world’s most distinguished new stays. From the moment Prince Charles rocked up in his kilt to declare it open, the travel press were full of praise for this previously unremarkable lodging in deepest Deeside. Why? Mr Iwan and Ms Manuela Wirth, that’s why: two-thirds of international gallerists Hauser & Wirth, Swiss art power couple and, it turns out, local residents. After buying the crumbling Victorian pile in 2014, they, along with design studio Russell Sage took four years to turn it into a Highland fantasy, a gloriously OTT granite edifice combining Caledonian hospitality, modern details and a dash of Scotch kitsch to great effect. Here’s why you should believe the hype.

The couthy village of Braemar has been a stop on the Highland tour since Queen Victoria bought nearby Balmoral Castle in 1852. She was taken by the peace of the landscape, which ranges from wild, ancient Caledonian Forest to heathery hillsides, foaming rivers and the stern peaks of the Cairngorm Mountains. Colourful neighbours in this national park include red squirrels, black grouse, white mountain hares, roe deer and, if you’re lucky, golden eagles. (And you don’t have to wander too far to spot them.) Plus, the Braemar Gathering is held here every September. If you’re a fan of burly men tossing cabers, get that annual leave booked.

If you can keep your eyes off the striking mural by Argentinian artist Mr Guillermo Kuitca that fills the dining room, you can gaze outside to the tumbling Clunie Water where the fish in the smoked salmon swam, or the hills where the deer in the ossobuco ran. Other local heroes include Aberdeen Angus steak cooked over fire, Great Glen venison charcuterie, organic eggs from up the road and the best of Scottish seafood. And the hearty breakfast, with Stornoway black pudding, say, or Aberdeenshire butteries (pastries) is just what you need before a tramp over the moors.

Although there’s a cool little cocktail bar (named after designer Ms Elsa Schiaparelli, a regular visitor to Braemar), the heart of the hotel is the cosy Flying Stag pub, which sports a lifesize tribute to its name by artist Mr James Prosek. Locals and guests alike create a jolly atmosphere, piling in for live folk music, Scottish ales and a stock of hundreds of whiskies. Try a dram of fruity, spicy Royal Lochnagar 12 Year Old, distilled in the next village, or a faintly peaty Tomintoul, named for the famous Speyside region is over the other side of the mountains.

Each of the 46 rooms, from the ornate Royal Suites to the snug Croft Rooms, is named after a notable Scot or aspect of Scottish culture, including Mr Robert Louis Stevenson and Ms Nan Shepherd. The rooms are distinctive (and far from minimalist), sharing a considered yet brave selection of the hotel’s 14,000 (yes, really) ornaments, antiques, chattels and props. The public areas are a rammy of tartan furnishings, framed paintings, original architectural features, taxidermy and herds and herds of mounted stag antlers. Around here, wildlife ends up on the walls as well as the menu.

Amid all the tasteful tartan and heirloom garnishes, it’s impossible to overlook the artworks throughout the hotel. You might nod appreciatively at the Mr Lucien Freud portrait in the lobby, or smile at the cheeky piece by Mr Pablo Picasso in the drawing room, but you’ll stop to gawp at the unmistakable Ms Louise Bourgeois spider in the courtyard. The Wirths really are well connected. People pay good money to view this stuff in the art districts of London or New York, and here it is hanging outside your bedroom door. Think of it as a bonus.