THE JOURNAL
At some point over the past few years, the quarter-zip sweater became a signifier for the other half. Or rather, a fraction tinier still: the top one per cent. Prince Harry wore one. As did the former British prime minister, Rishi Sunak, in a move seen as an attempt to make him seem more accessible, until suddenly it didn’t. And this item of knitwear quickly became double bluff, a shorthand for the elite of the global elite trying to look like one of us.
But the story gets even more complicated than that. You see, the modern quarter zip is really a tale of two sweaters. On one hand, there’s the one you know. “The corporate-toned, relatively thin, merino-wool kind, which continues to be the de facto replacement of the blazer in the City and it’s highly unlikely that will change,” says Benedict Browne, Style Director at MR PORTER. “It’s by no means exciting, nor is it meant to be.”
Then there’s the other kind. “Fashion-forward examples that blend luxurious materials – cashmere, alpaca, mohair, angora – with interesting tones,” as Browne puts it. He frames this second variety as more than merely a quarter zip, but a “quarterback – the star player”. And it’s this MVP incarnation that is “giving the quarter zip a great rep at present”.
There is, of course, room for both in your wardrobe. And the two factions are not entirely exclusive. The big appeal of the quarter-zip sweater is how easy it is to wear – and how adaptable it can be, in any guise.
“It’s classic,” says Lauren Cochrane, senior fashion writer for The Guardian and author of The Ten. “A versatile and hardworking piece.” She puts its resurgence at least in part down to the “ripple effect from Gorpcore – the cagoule-type shapes often have quarter zips, so it got us thinking about the style again”.
Amid your knitwear, a quarter zip offers a point of difference. “A crew neck will always be a wardrobe essential, but I feel the quarter zip offers extra styling opportunities through layering,” says Kit Swann, Fashion Editor at MR PORTER. “This combined with the gentle rise of thick knits has made for brands coming out with some extremely interesting pieces and experimenting a lot with different weaves.”
All of which doesn’t mean that the quarter zip is six of one thing, half a dozen of the other. The trick is to do it right. For an idea of how to go about that, read on.
01. Know your knit
“Fabrication is always the starting point,” says Rachel O-Williams, Assistant Personal Shopper at MR PORTER. “It’s what defines both the look and feel of a great knit. The attention to detail really shows when you choose quality fibres. A silk blend offers a subtle sheen that instantly elevates even the simplest piece, while cashmere brings that soft, almost weightless comfort that makes you want to live in it. The goal is to look refined but feel relaxed. Gone are the days of itchy, heavy knits worn purely for warmth.”
“I think the classic brands always do good ones,” Cochrane says. “Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Canali – but I also really like the natural fabrics of Inis Méain.”
“For me, The Elder Statesman really nails it,” O-Williams says. “The knits are impossibly soft and the patterns give each piece a personality of its own. Its cashmere half zips in classic colours have become wardrobe staples for good reason. They’re versatile, timeless and make layering feel effortless.
“I’d also put Ralph Lauren Purple Label firmly on the list,” she adds. “The mulberry silk and cotton-blend half zip in blue is a perfect example. It’s a shade that feels deliberate. Both brands share this ability to combine quality and style in a way that never feels overworked. Pieces that elevate an outfit without ever screaming for attention.”
02. The shape and the colour
“You want something that flatters without clinging,” O-Williams says. “Structured without feeling stiff. Avoid the extremes, nothing too oversized or overly fitted. The ideal knit should drape naturally over the body, sitting neatly at the shoulder and falling clean through the torso. It should look like it was made for you, not borrowed or stretched into shape.”
“To avoid the Sunak effect, don’t go too ‘smart-casual’,” Cochrane says. “A slightly oversized fit will bring a cooler, more relaxed feel – too tight will veer towards politician territory. It would look great with baggy jeans when dressed down.”
“A quarter knit is also one of the easiest ways to introduce colour into your wardrobe,” O-Williams says. “Don’t shy away from richer tones or bolder hues as they’re a simple way to make an outfit feel intentional. The trick is to keep the palette in tune with the season, balancing vibrancy with wearability so it feels elevated rather than overdone.”
03. Fine is fine, but chunky adds depth
“A chunky knit naturally sits on the more casual end of the spectrum,” O-Williams says. “It pairs effortlessly with denim or corduroy and carries that easy energy that makes it feel approachable without looking sloppy. The texture itself brings personality, giving a simple outfit an extra dimension.
“But if you want to elevate the look, a finer knit with a smooth finish and a subtle sheen is the way to go,” she adds. “A lightweight knit in a natural fibre, whether silk, merino or cashmere works beautifully under a blazer or simply styled with tailored trousers.”
04. What to wear with it
“A quarter knit is surprisingly versatile, but the pieces you pair with it make all the difference,” O-Williams says. “For a relaxed, everyday look, think classic denim, chinos or soft wool trousers – fabrics that complement the knit’s texture without fighting it. Sleek leather boots or minimalist sneakers will help ground the outfit, while a structured overcoat or a casual bomber jacket can add shape and polish.”
“When dressing up, they could look good with wide-legged trousers and brogues in a sort of midcentury-film-star kind of way,” Cochrane says.
Swann also suggests wearing one with a shirt and tie. “Keep your silhouette interesting by going oversized with either the knit or trousers,” he says. “Dressing down can be even easier. A comfortable approach would be with an oversized T-shirt and baggy jeans. It doesn’t need to be anything more than that but having the bottom of the tee out shows layering and makes the look feel more complete.”
“If it’s a dry day, there’s no reason why a really heavy quarter-zip can’t work as the most outer garment,” Browne says. “But for that to work efficiently, wear lighter weight tops and shirts beneath for a smart take on layering. You want to be able to adjust your temperature as you go about your day.”
05. Above all, keep it natural
The quarter-zip neckline might tap into the Gorpcore aesthetic, but it pays to swerve wearing one with technical gear. “Avoid overly stiff fabrics, shiny synthetics or anything that competes with the knit’s subtlety,” O-Williams says. “Chunky knitwear can feel awkward with overly wide trousers or oversized outerwear, and it’s easy for the silhouette to get lost. Similarly, pairing a delicate fine knit with heavy, rugged pieces can feel mismatched. The trick is contrast and proportion Let the knit be the hero, and surround it with pieces that support its texture, fit and colour.”