THE JOURNAL
Assorted pastries at Beyond Bread. Photograph courtesy of Beyond Bread
The UK’s gluten-free contingent get a tough gig, with stigmatisation, slimmed-down menus and fear of cross-contamination making dining out a chore. Whether related to dietary choice or – as is the case for one per cent of the population – coeliac diagnosis, an aversion to wheat, barley and rye plays havoc with your health and turns menus into minefields. Yet an increasing number of venues are going against the grain and creating flavourful food as vibrant as it is virtuous.
Beyond the major chains (where honourable shoutouts go to the likes of Pizza Express, Carluccio’s and Pho), innovative chefs across the capital have created wheat-free menus spanning the world’s cuisines. Ranging from haute cuisine and perfect pasta to fried chicken and fresh loaves, here are five of London’s go-to’s for gluten dodgers.
Beyond Bread
Smoked Loch Duart salmon, house pickle and cream-cheese and chive sandwich. Photograph courtesy of Beyond Bread
Addressing the fact that breakfast is notoriously tricky for coeliacs, Ms Elena Golubovich launched the sleek Beyond Bread bakery in Fitzrovia in 2015, with an Islington branch and a Selfridges concession swiftly following. Using flours made from brown rice, quinoa, buckwheat, chickpea and an Ethiopian grain called teff, the high-calibre, gluten-free loaves on offer bring in custom from across London and lie at the heart of a Coeliac UK-approved cafe menu that boasts equally impressive pastries, cakes and brunch staples.
Bird
Buffalo wings. Photograph courtesy of Bird
Although not strictly a gluten-free restaurant, Bird – which now has several branches across north and east London (Camden, Stratford, Shoreditch, Islington) – has succeeded in providing a high-street favourite that was previously off-limits to coeliacs – fried chicken. “The most popular gluten-free dishes are the wings, tenders and pieces,” says co-founder Mr Paul Hemings. “It was designed from a taste perspective first – we like the crunch and consistency of our chicken when we used a combination of rice flour and corn starch.” With chips, sides and a choice of sauces also ticking the gluten-free box, Bird has become a safe-haven for wheat-averse fans of fast food.
Indigo
Fish and chips. Photograph courtesy of Indigo
Set in central London’s impressive One Aldwych Hotel, Indigo is a pioneer of gluten-free fine dining, which is served in an equally sophisticated setting. The hotel’s executive chef Mr Dominic Teague has developed a Coeliac UK-accredited menu that’s led by seasonal produce. “Most important is sourcing the best you can get; it’s all about building good relationships with producers, farmers and suppliers,” says Mr Teague, who adds that his high-end take on fish and chips – using Cornish cod or pollack and triple-cooked chips – is among the most popular options.
Leggero
Courgette rolls with tomato, breadcrumbs and vegan Parmesan. Photograph courtesy of Leggero
Putting a gluten-free spin on Italian food, Leggero has become a Soho institution, with two further street-food outposts providing evidence of London’s obsession with its high-quality pasta. “It’s not just about the food: we want to create a community – an ‘oasis’ for people with allergies to enjoy their food,” says founder Mr Gabriele Vitali, whose team create homemade ravioli, pappardelle and tagliatelle alongside a range of small plates and a standout tiramisu that make it desirable regardless of food intolerances.
Niche
Vegan rhubarb panna cotta. Photograph courtesy of Niche
Just around the corner from Sadler’s Wells Theatre, Niche is a popular pre-performance spot that champions British food with a diverse range of dishes, and it warrants repeat visits. Rather than shy away from traditional gluten-free no-goes, the founders have used culinary nous and carefully balanced flour blends to create an award-winning menu that includes crowd-pleasing pies, pastries and parmesan doughnuts on an innovative menu that they claim is “gluten free, but you wouldn’t know it”.