THE JOURNAL
Fanny’s Kebabs Restaurant. Photograph by Mr Josh Meeks-Rayvon, courtesy of Fanny’s Kebabs
The places that are taking burgers, kebabs and bacon butties to a new level.
As sophisticated as our palates have become, there will always be a time for junk food. London may have perhaps the most innovative and diverse restaurant scene on Earth, but the allure of fryer-fresh cod or a greasy box of wings is as strong as ever. The fried chicken market alone is worth more than £2bn in the UK. Fast food is serious business and whether that’s due to convenience or cost, its vendors continue to thrive.
That’s not to say this corner of the market hasn’t changed. Over the past few years gentrified takes on high-street staples have been offered across the board with no fast-food sector left untouched by an increased focus on provenance and flavour. And while traditionalists may stick with non-fancified versions (no judgements here), there’s now a fast-food option to suit all tastes. Here are five of the best new-wave outposts.
Burgers
El Chappo burger at Lucky Chip at Bluecoats. Photograph courtesy of Lucky Chip
Lucky Chip at The Bluecoats, Tottenham
A pioneer of London’s original “dirty” burger scene when it launched in 2011, Mr Ben Denner’s Lucky Chip has made its mark with a series of residencies around the capital. Its soft brioche buns, seared aged-beef patties and witty creations, including the self-explanatory Kevin Bacon, are meaty manna from heaven for London’s carnivores. The latest incarnation is at Tottenham’s just-opened The Bluecoats pub, a collaborative takeover with the owners of Ruby’s and Night Tales that’s well worth a visit.
Bacon sandwiches
Bacon sandwich at Le Swine. Photograph by Lucy Richard Photography, courtesy of Le Swine
Le Swine, Spitalfields
It is almost inconceivable that a shop-bought bacon butty could better an HP-heavy sandwich made at home, but the team at Le Swine in Spitalfields have had a pretty good stab. Founder Mr James Packman, who claims the concept was formed after he stole a sandwich from his former boss Mr Bruno Loubet, has dedicated the past few years to finessing this British staple. The resulting sandwich is sublime. It combines pure-breed bacon, mushroom ketchup and bacon butter in a lightly toasted milk bun. A loyal fanbase has meant Mr Packman’s food truck, a converted vintage ambulance, has been joined by a permanent spot in the heart of Spitalfields Market.
Tacos
Tacos at El Pastór Taqueria. Photograph by courtesy of El Pastór Taqueria
Tortilleria El Pastór, Bermondsey
Five years ago Mexican restaurants in London were few and far between, but over the past two years there’s been an explosion in high-end newcomers. Having honed their craft running club nights in Mexico and at El Pastór in Borough Market, which opened in 2016, the team are well-versed in authenticity and their tortilleria in a railway arch in Bermondsey is testament to that. Tortillas are made in-house each day using heritage corn. A pared-back taco menu, which includes slow-cooked short rib, slow-cooked pork with pineapple and earthy mushroom with Oaxaca cheese, pairs beautifully with a frozen margarita.
Kebabs
Fanny’s Kebabs. Photograph by Mr Jørn Tomter, courtesy of Fanny’s Kebabs
Fanny’s Kebabs, Stoke Newington and Fulham
Setting up a posh kebab shop in the heart of London’s Turkish community is more than a little audacious, to put it politely. When it launched, a Twitterstorm meant the Fanny’s Kebabs team had to pull a swift marketing U-turn and dial down the superiority. The west London trio behind Fanny’s persevered, however, and recently opened a second site on safer ground at Market Hall Fulham, where their fresh selection of wraps, rice boxes or salads, dressed in homemade sauces with vegan and gluten-free options available, are sure to reach a more receptive crowd.
Fried “chicken”
Fried “chicken” burger at Club Mexicana at the Spread Eagle. Photograph courtesy of Club Mexicana
**Club Mexicana at The Spread Eagle, Homerton **
London’s first vegan pub garnered plenty of headlines when it opened earlier this year, not least because the kitchen was taken over by Ms Meriel Armitage’s Club Mexicana, one of the city’s most alluring vegan concepts. This vibrant, plant-based spin on Mexican street food has won over vegan and non-vegan diners alike and among a moreish menu of tacos and burritos, its MFC (Mexican fried chicken) stands out. With a peppery annatto glaze, mustard mayo and crunchy pickled cabbage, this seitan “chicken” is one of London’s finest fast-food finds.
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