You don’t just stumble upon Inis Meáin, the middle-most of the Aran Islands. Located 20km off the west coast of Ireland, sandwiched between its neighbours, Inis Mór – where parts of 2022’s The Banshees Of Inisherin were filmed, subbing in for the fictional isle location – and Inis Oírr, it is accessible only via a 45-minute ferry ride or a five-minute flight from the mainland. The official timetable says there are three flights a day, but as with so many things here, it’s best to ask a local. Hopefully, you’ll find someone who speaks fluent English, but this is far from guaranteed. Thanks to the islands’ physical remoteness, the traditional way of life has lingered and Irish is still the first language of most of the older residents.