What to wear with distinctive tailoring this SS season.

As MR PORTER’s US Editor Mr Dan Rookwood opined in his column last Friday, the two types of suit every man should have in his wardrobe are navy and grey. Where exactly, then, does something like the brown “Eggsy” suit from our own Kingsman range fit in? Simply put, a light-brown suit is for the man who has nailed the basics and wants to show a bit of confidence in his tailoring – particularly in summer, when such softer shades feel far more seasonally appropriate. At the current point in time, it’s also a good way to nod to (without slavishly following) the general trend for all things 1970s, spearheaded by designers including Gucci’s Mr Alessandro Michele. How to get it right? The answers are just a scroll (or swipe) away…

When opting for a suit in such an eye-catching (and relatively bright) colour, it’s safest to pair it with a white shirt. But be aware that though it’s often considered an utterly neutral shade, there are in fact different kinds of white. For wearing with brown, it’s better to look for a warmer shade, with a tiny bit of yellow in it, such as in the above example from Tom Ford. It may seem like a very fine distinction, but de-harshing the white of your shirt will make for a much softer and more harmonious look overall.

We have covered how to pair shoes with suits before – and in this case, the rules haven’t changed: when wearing a brown suit, you also need brown shoes, but make sure they’re in a different tone. As this particular suit isn’t quite light enough for us to call it “tan”, we think it’s better to pick a darker pair of Derbies to go with it – this pair from British stalwart Tricker’s not only have a wonderfully rich chocolate hue, but also come equipped with Dainite soles, meaning you don’t have to be so wary of scuffing them as you skip around town.

When it comes to accessories, the best strategy for a brown suit is to continue to explore the yellow/orange/brown colour palette. In your watch, this means looking for an example in gold, or, better, rose red gold, such as this superlative Portofino Automatic from IWC Schaffhausen. Continue to bring out those amber-y tones (and add a tiny bit of rakish flair to it all) with this glass bead and enamelled gold bracelet from Luis Morais.

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