There are a few skincare maxims every man should know – don’t wash your face with soap, SPF is your best friend and a good acid will go a long way. All right, the latter may be a recent addition, but with the wave of efficacious, acid-based products hitting the market, maxims need to be managed.

If you are new to skincare, a quick crib sheet: acids are fundamentally chemical exfoliators, builders and changemakers. Often considered the heavyweights of the skincare world, acids are able to jump into the ring with any skincare condition and pretty much get a knockout within the first few rounds. You want at least one of these boys in your corner (well, cabinet). There are acids that help brighten, clarify and even hydrate. We asked the renowned dermatologist (and king of exfoliating) Dr Dennis Gross, to create a guide on what might be right for your skin.

Glycolic acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) with the smallest molecular structure of the group, which allows it to penetrate deep into the skin for the greatest exfoliation. Glycolic acid is used to improve the skin’s appearance and texture, while also reducing fine lines, hyperpigmentation, dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Best for: textured skin and for those who want to minimise fine lines and wrinkles.

Also in the AHA family, this is a naturally occurring acid that is more gentle than glycolic acid. Lactic acid helps exfoliate as well as speed up cell renewal and turnover. It’s a great choice if you’re looking for a multitasking acid.

Best for: anyone can benefit from the use of this ingredient, especially those with post-inflammation pigmentation, acne scarring or sensitive skin.

Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) that exfoliates the skin, reducing the number of pore blockages while building elastin and collagen. BHAs are oil-soluble, which enables them to get deep into the pores and unclog them. Salicylic acid is also anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory, which helps to calm and clarify the skin.

Best for: combination or oily, acne-prone skin types.

In the vitamin A family, retinoic acid is a powerhouse, addressing a wide variety of skincare concerns. It stimulates the production of new skin cells, increases cellular turnover, fades different forms of dark spots and blemish scars, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also addresses pore size and skin texture. While you should always be wearing SPF, it is especially important with retinoic acid. You’ll also need to start with a lower dose, such as 0.2 per cent, and work your way up.

Best for: mature skin, or for preventative use for those serious about anti-ageing skincare.

Also known as vitamin C, this is one of skincare’s staple superheroes, and one of the greatest anti-agers nature has produced. L-ascorbic acid acts as an anti-inflammatory, protects cells against UVB and UVA damage, stimulates collagen growth and helps to brighten and even skin tone. If you have sun spots or hyperpigmentation, this is a great option.

Best for: hyperpigmentation or dull skin.

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant able to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. It hydrates and plumps the skin by drawing water into the skin from the atmosphere. While humans naturally produce this, the production declines with age and environmental aggressors, so it’s essential to incorporate the ingredient for plump, dewy skin.

Best for: dehydrated or dry skin, as well as those with acne-prone skin that are looking for an effective oil-free option.

These are some of the hardest workers naturally present in your skin, acting as the building blocks of proteins and peptides to support everything, including hydration, texture and resilience. If you are sunburned, have over-exfoliated or just want a slightly gentler approach to your skincare, this is the ideal choice. Best for: sensitive and mature skin.

If over-the-counter exfoliating acids make you a touch nervous or you want something with a real punch, opt for a professional – someone like Dr David Jack, whose new clinic has just opened on Harley Street. He offers “The Perfect Peel”, which promises to transform your skin into a younger, clearer and healthier version of itself in one week. The treatment contains a bit of everything Dr Dennis Gross mentioned; retinol, vitamin C and salicylic acid, as well as some other heavy hitters, reducing everything from wrinkles, pores, and even pigmentation. The results are on another level and the downtime is minimal.