THE JOURNAL

The seafood platter at Neptune. Photograph by Mr Steven Joyce, courtesy of Neptune
The new Kimpton Fitzroy London hotel pays homage to the creative set’s legacy.
The Bloomsbury Set’s wit, literature and lavish lifestyles first illuminated the leafy squares of WC1 a century ago, and the central London postcode has since evolved into something of a curiosity. An undisputedly beautiful neighbourhood fringing the capital’s less lovely areas, the wayward creative spirit imparted by Ms Virginia Woolf and her creative clique has attracted tourist groups and UCL students alike.
Step forward the Kimpton Fitzroy London hotel, which aims to create a buzz in Bloomsbury once more. This newly launched “destination hotel” is a rework of flamboyant British architect Mr Charles Fitzroy Doll’s Hotel Russell, which opened its doors in 1898; its striking Renaissance-revival terracotta façade looming large over Russell Square. The latest incarnation, which took several years to complete, saw acclaimed interior designers Mr Russell Sage and Ms Tara Bernerd tasked with bringing its former glories back to life.
“It is without a doubt one of London’s grande dames and we’ve tried to embrace its history and heritage,” says Ms Bernerd on the Grade II-listed building, whose zodiac floor mosaic, marble pillars and original stained glass windows give it wow factor other hotel developers can only dream of. “We’ve drawn upon these elements of Victorian grandeur while adding more contemporary elements to give the space a more welcoming, seductive atmosphere.”
Its most lavish suites boast four-poster beds and freestanding baths. They remain faithful to Mr Fitzroy Doll’s original vision that all rooms should be somewhere to host a party as well as a meeting or dinner – a philosophy that continues throughout the hotel. The hotel’s characterful cocktail bar, Fitz’s – replete with dramatic black walls and a giant mirror ball – opened its doors last month with a focus on escapism. “When you go to a hotel bar you can be anyone you want to be, so there is a feeling of being a bit more risqué and doing things you wouldn’t normally do,” says Mr Robbie Bargh, whose concept for Fitz’s is inspired by the jazz age. “What I loved about the Bloomsbury Set is that they didn’t conform and were a bit odd; they took off their corsets and threw them out the window. I’d like to be able to attract free spirits here – interesting, wild things who are a little bit different.”

The Kimpton Fitzroy London’s main restaurant, Neptune, is an equally vivid setting. Characterised by its peachy pink walls, verdant greenery and Art Deco-meets-1970s-boho styling, it showcases the creative endeavours of restaurateur duo Ms Margaret Crow and Mr Brett Redman, who describe Neptune as a “fun, fresh take on a brasserie”. At its heart sits an iced oyster bar, while a rotating selection of fresh fish from an inventive seafood menu is cooked over a wood grill. Neptune’s marine theme carries through to a wine list, with each bottle bearing some connection to the ocean, whether that’s through vineyards in the salt air of Tasmania to the sandy soils of Sicily or those where the terroir is composed of fossilised oyster shells.
Mr Redman’s past experience at similarly charismatic ventures Elliot’s, Jidori and The Richmond all bode well for Neptune’s success. “When you look at those three restaurants from the outside they are all completely different but they all are based on giving the diners what they want,” he says. “A great value meal of well-cooked and high-quality produce in thoughtfully designed rooms with warm and attentive service.”
Undoubtedly a place to see and be seen, Neptune has the feel of a restaurant where you may just end up throwing caution to the wind, order that extra bottle of champagne and settle in for the evening, something its founders (not to mention forebears) would wholeheartedly approve of. “Mr Fitzroy Doll was a genius,” says Mr Bargh. “The phrase dolled up – the idea that too much is never enough – originated from him and I love that. Why not go a bit crazy?”
With more bars and restaurants set to open their doors nearby, Principal London has returned a sense of swagger to an area that connects east London to central and today’s bright young things with yesteryear’s. “All too often Bloomsbury hotels have slipped into Bloomsbury Set clichés, I hope we’ve added something that chimes with its creative heritage without pastiche-ing it,” says Mr Sage. “The building is full of passionate creative energy which is very much alive.”
Recipe for scallop carpaccio

by Mr Bret Redman

Scallop carpaccio. Photograph by Mr Steven Joyce, courtesy of Neptune
**Serves 4 **
Ingredients:
4 extra-large scallops, thinly sliced
A few sheets of nori
For the dulse oil:
Blend 50g dulse seaweed and 200g vegetable oil together on high for five minutes then strain. Reserve the oil and discard the seaweed pulp.
For the ajo blanco:
Pour 250g boiling water over 50g almonds and 50g hazelnuts and allow to cool. Once cool, blend with 5g sherry vinegar, 150g olive oil and 2g salt till smooth.
Method:
To dress the plate, place the thinly sliced scallop around the plate, spoon the ajo blanco between the slices, top with torn pieces of toasted nori sheets and drizzle with the dulse oil.
