The Mistakes You’re Making With Your Skincare Routine

Link Copied

4 MINUTE READ

The Mistakes You’re Making With Your Skincare Routine

Words by Mr Ashley Clarke

5 September 2018

Expert dermatologist Dr Dennis Gross answers your questions.

Good grooming involves a fair bit of trial and error. Our cleansing rituals are personal pursuits, different to each of us, and largely completed behind closed doors. Which is a good thing, really. There’s no respectable reason why you would want to watch someone else exfoliate, is there? Yet that reticence means that bad skincare regimens go unchecked. Advice is often conflicting and the internet is seldom reliable, which means myths take hold and flourish. In the interests of busting a few of these, MR PORTER spoke to New York dermatologist Dr Dennis Gross.

**How often should I exfoliate? **

Daily. In the past, dermatologists were recommending limiting exfoliation to once or twice per week. Forget that. A daily gentle – and gentle is key – exfoliation has numerous benefits. Our skin has a 28-day cycle where the skin cells at the bottom gradually work their way to the surface where they harden, die and flake off to reveal the new cells beneath. As we get older, this process slows down, but we can use daily exfoliation to speed the process back up.

How often should I wash my hair?

For men, I recommend two to three times per week. Over-washing hair with shampoo can make the scalp more oily. Many people don’t know this, but scalp oils are hospitable to the growth of yeast. To many people, yeast is unimportant, but it can lead to inflammation of the scalp. Scalp inflammation promotes free radicals and the hair will suffer, just like skin will.

And my face?

Twice per day, morning and night. I recently launched the Alpha Beta Pore Perfecting Cleansing Gel. It is formulated with several acids at low concentrations so it clears pores without stripping or irritating the skin. Plus, you’re getting all of those other added benefits of exfoliation.

Does spending more on skincare products mean better skin?

Not necessarily. The ingredients are what is most important, and quality ingredients are more expensive. However, there are several other factors that can raise the price of a product. For example, fancy packaging, a celebrity spokesperson or flashy marketing campaigns can all drive up the price of skincare. When selecting a product, do a deep dive into the ingredient list before pulling out your wallet.

Do I really need to wear SPF every day, even in winter?

Yes. The sun doesn’t all of a sudden become anodyne when temperatures drop. Ask any avid skier or snowboarder and they will likely be able to recount an instance where they got sunburnt on the slopes. It does not matter what season it is or where you live, the sun is our skin’s worst enemy when it comes to skin cancer, skin damage and premature skin ageing, which is why sun protection is so important. UVA and UVB trigger free radicals, which act like little darts on our skin, poking holes in our collagen and elastin. Sun spots form as a result of excess pigmentation due to too much ultra-violet light. Practising “safe sun” and wearing an SPF 365 days a year is our best defence, and I cannot emphasise it enough.

Does oily skin need moisturising as much as dry skin?

Yes, even though it seems counter-intuitive. If you have oily skin and you forgo a moisturiser, your skin will become more dry and rebound with more oil production. This will lead to breakouts. If you have oily skin, look for an oil-free moisturiser and avoid comedogenic [pore-blocking] ingredients.

Does organic and natural skincare make much difference?

No, not really. For the first time ever, we have the science and technology to improve upon nature and engineer products that we have not been capable of engineering before. For example, take the Alpha Beta Daily Peel. Step one is naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acids combined with beta acids, which use technology to synthesise. Combining the two is an example of science and nature working together to give better results than either one would give alone.

Can anti-ageing skincare really take years off you?

It can. I always tell my patients that you want to start anti-ageing skincare as soon as possible. It is better to invest in prevention versus attempting to reverse skin damage and signs of ageing after they are already prevalent. Even in-office treatments, such as Botox, can be preventive. And always wear SPF. Sun damage is one of the biggest factors in how our skin ages.

Does shaving make facial hair grow faster?

Absolutely not.

Which ingredients or products in your experience make a real difference to the appearance of skin?

You’ll see the biggest difference through a combination of products. There is no one miracle product, but the product I believe makes the biggest difference is a chemical peel. My Alpha Beta Daily Peels target uneven skin tone and texture, fine lines and wrinkles and enlarged pores.

try these

Keep up to date with The Daily by signing up for our weekly email roundup. Click here to update your email preferences.