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Best Of Watches & Wonders 2020: The Action Heroes
Words by Chris Hall
5 October 2020

Once upon a time, mechanical watches were indispensable tools. On the wrists of deep-sea divers, astronauts, pilots, mountaineers and explorers, they were vital equipment – sometimes to the point of life or death. Today’s technology means a watch is rarely called upon to play this role (although many professionals swear by them in case of emergency). But we still prize the traits that make a watch so capable: the strength, reliability, durability and clarity of design that equip them for situations far outside the norm. These watches all embody that spirit of action; some from a very modern perspective, others by evoking the aesthetic of an earlier age.

01.
IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN Big Pilot’s Big Date Spitfire
Created to mark the success of a modern-day adventure, the Longest Flight (read up on it, it’s a great tale), this Spitfire Mission Accomplished edition by IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN is a pilot’s watch with a difference. Cased in bronze, with a big date complication, it adds a certain refinement to the classic aviation tropes, riffing on the archetype in the way that only those watchmakers with genuine pedigree can.

02.
Panerai Submersible Carbotech
A very modern spin on a long-established template, Panerai’s Submersible Carbotech updates the decades-old dive watch with a case made of forged carbon fibre, kitted out with a bright blue “sandwich” dial that contrasts beautifully with the matte, shadowy look of the lightweight carbon case.

03.
Montblanc 1858 24H Automatic
Montblanc’s 1858 collection is all about channelling the spirit of mountain exploration, and this unusual single-hand piece is perhaps the closest to a purpose-built tool watch (albeit a somewhat steampunk one) and absolutely looks the part for an expedition. In a pinch, it can be used as a compass, too.

04.
Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Bronze
Baume & Mercier’s action-forward Clifton Club collection has bedded in since its launch in 2017, and we are rewarded with some more characterful references. None more so than this bronze-cased piece with green bezel; the 100m water-resistant watch is one of the most casual on offer thanks to the soft grey calfskin suede strap.

05.
Ulysse Nardin Executive Dual Time
It may have “Executive” in its title, but one look at this new release from Ulysse Nardin and you can see the lineage back to sturdy, go-anywhere watches; the integrated rubber strap and angular steel case in particular. The large pushers on the side control a patented quick-switch dual time system – perfect for globe-trotting adventurers.