Multisensory dining is very much in vogue, but all the other efforts will seem a bit two-dimensional after a meal at chef Mr Paul Pairet’s mindbending restaurant. “Meal” might be underselling it. Dinner here is an experience to rival the most immersive of theatre productions, and just happens to have three-Michelin-starred food at its heart. Describing it in terms of cooking style isn’t possible, so we’ll just say that you and the evening’s nine other diners will be challenged, surprised, amused, provoked and wowed, and what you’re seeing, smelling, hearing and feeling will be just as important as what you’re eating. If that sounds confusing, best just to book.