THE JOURNAL
From left: Gucci. Photograph courtesy of Gucci. Rick Owens. Photograph courtesy of Rick Owens. Y/Project. Photograph courtesy of Y/Project. Eckhaus Latta. Photograph by Imaxtree
Whether it’s the trend for tiny bags, Y2K kidcore, leopard print or Mary Janes, where womenswear goes, menswear often follows. The latest example? None other than the “subversive basic”. Influenced by the 1990s/early 2000s Matrix-core, Mad Max-esque, post-apocalyptic dystopian fashion and the techno and rave scenes, subversive basics are essentially “anything that subverts a classic staple silhouette”, the fashion writer Ms Alexandra Hildreth (@guyfieri.superfan) explained on TikTok. The look typically involves a smattering of skin-baring cut-outs, holes, sheer fabric and layering, and it’s seen social media sites awash with kids cutting up their tights and refashioning them as tops.
For SS22, brands such as Rick Owens, Eckhaus Latta and Dion Lee, which are known for experimenting with avant-garde shapes, have stuck to their core values, but cut-outs have started popping up on runways where they might not be expected. Gucci, Y/Project, LOEWE, CELINE HOMME and Etro all featured cut-outs, holes and flashes of flesh in their latest menswear collections. Revealing collar bones, armpits, ribs and more, they showcased somewhat dystopian silhouettes to mirror our somewhat dystopian times.
Away from the catwalk, a handful of celebrities have been making a case for cut-outs to be this season’s most exciting trend. Take Mr Harry Styles, who was photographed for the cover of Dazed magazine in November in a simple black tank top with a gaping hole in the middle, which revealed his chest and ribs, or Mr Troye Sivan, who pushed gender boundaries at the 2021 Met Gala by wearing an Altu dress with waist cut-outs that nodded to the 1990s supermodel. Professional provocateur Lil Nas X and members of Italian rock band Måneskin can often be spotted embracing mesh and cut-out tops that hark back to 1990s and 2000s club culture.
As we’ve transitioned back into going out, many of us are looking to experiment with what we wear. A cut-out item could be just a fun companion for spring and summer nights out. And it doesn’t have to be bold or worthy of Berlin’s Berghain, either. You can dip your toe in the subversive pool by opting for distressed or sheer materials, experimenting with extra-deep V-necks or simply layering a vest or tank top over a long-sleeve T-shirt to create some dimension. No nipple-baring necessary.
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