THE JOURNAL

Snowmass. Photograph by Mr Dan Bayer
With nicknames including “Billionaire Mountain” and “The Hampton of the Hills”, it’s an open secret that Aspen is the glitziest ski resort in the US. During high season, it’s estimated that a private jet lands at the town’s exclusive airport every six minutes – ferrying in the great and the good from both coasts, as well as delivering a string of A-listers to their alpine homes, from Messrs Jeff Bezos and Roman Abramovich to Messrs Kurt Russell and Kevin Costner.
This year, the chic Colorado resort celebrates its 75th birthday, with a string of events planned to mark the occasion. If you’re headed for the gilded hills to join the party (and get in some world-class skiing on the side), you’re going to need the best insider knowledge. We asked three well-connected, well-heeled locals – award-winning chef Mr C Barclay Dodge of Bosq, clothing designer and co-founder of Aztech Mountain Mr Anthony Heifara Rutgers, and world champion skier Mr Chris Davenport – to give us the lowdown on living the high life in North America’s most stylish ski town.

The Walter Paepcke Suite at The Little Nell. Photograph by Mr Shawn O’Connor, courtesy of The Little Nell
WHERE TO STAY
The Little Nell
Little in name, but not in size or reputation, the Nell is Aspen’s only ski-in ski-out five-star property. As a result, it’s a magnet for celebrities, who can often be spotted around the crackling fire in the living room, or enjoying a cocktail in the beautifully renovated Wine Bar, as their Moncler, Grenoble and Bogner luggage is whisked up to their suites. “Whenever my wife and I need a little staycation, we always choose The Little Nell,” says Davenport. “Besides having the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in, the staff are always so friendly – and the food at Element 47 is incredible.”
Hotel Jerome
The Hotel Jerome has been an Aspen landmark since the town’s silver-mining boom in the 1880s, but it struck gold in terms of international awareness nearly a century later, when Mr Hunter S Thompson named it his campaign headquarters during his infamous run for County Sheriff in 1970. Today, the Freak Power has faded, but the five-star hotel remains at the heart of the action, seamlessly blending modern luxury with warm mountain charm. “The Jerome is the best hotel for me,” says Dodge. “It has this rich cowboy character, history and flavour of the Old West, while offering top-notch services.”
Aspen Meadows
Tucked away on the western edge of town, Aspen Meadows is a secluded sanctuary on 40 private acres, framed by mind-boggling views of the Rocky Mountains. Famed for its big bedrooms (the smallest are 500sq ft), it’s also an architecture lover’s dream, fusing art and landscape to create a Bauhaus-inspired wonderland. “The hidden gem for me is Aspen Meadows,” says Rutgers. “It’s an incredible property for those who want peace and quiet – not to mention the insane art and architecture to explore there.”
What to pack

Aspen Mountain. Photograph by Matt Power Photography
WHERE TO SKI
Aspen Mountain
Known to locals as “Ajax”, Aspen Mountain is awash with advanced terrain, including steep descents, monster moguls and long, technical tree runs, all converging on the legendary Ajax Tavern at the base (the parmesan truffle fries here are a must-order). “Ajax is my favourite – it’s one of the best ski mountains in the whole of North America,” says Dodge. “In particular, the runs I love are T-5, SQR and Kristi’s. Just spectacular skiing.”
Aspen Highlands
A solid all-rounder, Aspen Highlands is essentially one long ridge, with runs for all abilities dropping off either side (the mid and lower mountain trails are particularly good for intermediates). The star attraction is Highland Bowl – which you hike into with your skis on your back, before swooping down through pockets of perfect powder, in a time-honoured ritual. “I’ve been skiing these mountains for 30 years, but if I had to choose one, it would be Highlands,” says Davenport. “I absolutely love hiking up Highland Bowl – and it usually has the best snow in Colorado.”
Buttermilk
Despite its reputation as a beginners’ paradise, Buttermilk Mountain isn’t just for novices – after all, it’s been hosting the Winter X Games for 20 years now. You’ll find Aspen’s best terrain parks here – as well as some of the longest, most delicious groomers in the entire area. “I grew up skiing Buttermilk, and now as a father it’s the only place I’ll take my daughter,” says Rutgers. “It has tree trails that go on for days.”
What to pack

The Living Room at Hotel Jerome, Auberge Resorts Collection. Photograph courtesy of Auberge Resorts Collection
WHERE TO APRÈS
Living Room at The Jerome
Hunter S Thompson once rode a horse into the Hotel Jerome to order a whiskey, but the magnificent Living Room in the lobby is a far more civilised affair these days. Skiers congregate at the mahogany bar after a day on the slopes, to toast each other’s good health over an impressive array of cocktails, including the signature Aspen Crud – a boozy, Prohibition-era milkshake. “I love the Living Room at the Jerome – the grand fireplace, the ambience and the overall décor really combine beautifully,” says Dodge. “The cocktail list is fantastic, too, which always helps.”
Chica
As far as Rutgers is concerned, the sacred window between the last ski lift and nightfall is best spent at Chica, a bar-restaurant serving Latin American cuisine with a cold weather spin, washed down with decadently delicious cocktails including their moreish Black Truffle Old Fashioned. “After a day on the mountain, I like to head to Chica for one of their signature Chica-Ritas before popping by the awesome Performance Ski to see who’s around and what’s new in town,” he says.
Highlands Ale House
A stellar gastropub at the foot of Aspen Highlands, the Highlands Ale House is the establishment that champion skier Davenport swears by for his post-slope procedure. “My favorite après spot these days is the Highlands Ale House,” he says. “The expansive deck is great for a drink in the sunshine, and the vibes are full of ski-town stoke.” The 75 whiskies on the menu at this beloved ski-in inn don’t hurt, either.
What to pack

Porcini mushroom dumplings with fresh homemade cheese, peas, foraged water cress and forest broth at Bosq. Photograph by Mr Trevor Triano, courtesy of Bosq
WHERE TO EAT
Bosq
It’s little surprise that Dodge recommends Bosq – he is the chef and co-owner of the local establishment, after all. But he’s far from alone: the intimate downtown restaurant with an emphasis on locally foraged ingredients is often booked up two or three weeks in advance. “Think modern alpine getaway: a clean space with grey washed tones, Scandinavian design and sultry music passing through the air,” says Dodge, who does much of the foraging himself.
Cache Cache
A lusty French bistro serving elevated country fare, the cosy, pillared dining room of Cache Cache remains one of the top spots to see and be seen in Aspen. Locals rave about the crab beignets with firecracker sauce, but for Rutgers, there’s only one choice: “I go to Cache Cache because I love Jodi [Larner], the owner, and because the trout Milanese is to die for,” he says.
Meat & Cheese
A hybrid restaurant and speciality food shop on East Hopkins Avenue (Aspen’s “Restaurant Row”), Meat & Cheese describes its offerings as “world farmhouse”, and its cheese boards in particular are, frankly, world class. “My go-to is the eggplant parmesan sandwich and my kids love the chicken and waffles,” says Davenport, who is a fully paid-up fan.
What to pack

Aspen Historical Society’s Wheeler/Stallard Museum. Photograph courtesy of Aspen Historical Society
DON’T MISS
Aspen Historical Society
Aspen is rightly proud of its arts and culture scene – one visit to the Mr Shigeru Ban-designed Aspen Art Museum will show you this little mountain town punches well above its weight on that front. But for Rutgers, the real star of the show is the Aspen Historical Society, with its fascinating, unorthodox bevy of museums spread out across town. “Anyone new to Aspen first needs to get their passport stamped at the Aspen Historical Society,” says the Aztech Mountain owner. “AHS is incredible in its mission to preserve Aspen’s diverse and colourful history.”
Woody Creek Tavern
Another haunt of Gonzo journalist Thompson, the Woody Creek Tavern is a quirky cowboy bar around 15 minutes’ drive from downtown Aspen. Oozing down home, comfortable charm, it’s menu recently got a major upgrade thanks to new ownership, but it can still be relied upon to serve the best margaritas in town. “Old school Aspen still lives on at the Woody Creek Tavern, and we love hitting it up on the way home from a big ski day,” says Davenport.
Pine Creek Cookhouse
Well and truly off the beaten path, the Pine Creek Cookhouse is a log cabin nestled at the foot of the Elk Mountains, about 30 minutes’ drive from Aspen proper. But its alpine gourmet food, with an emphasis on wild game and fresh fish, is well worth the effort, according to Dodge. “If I could single out one hidden gem for visitors, it would be the Pine Creek Cookhouse,” he says. “It’s an incredible dining experience, made all the more special by the fact that you can only get there by snowshoes, cross-country skis or horse-drawn carriage.”