THE JOURNAL
Attention to detail is always key. That’s as true of menswear as it is of any aspect of life that you wish to take seriously. Usually, when we frame this meticulous approach in relation to clothing, we’re talking about getting things right. Ensuring that every aspect of an item has been considered and finessed. These are tenets that would otherwise go unnoticed, only for those in the know.
With a shirt, this might be the fabric or construction, the stitch density and quality of the seams. Are the buttons on the button? These are the tell-tale signs of the care that has gone into this piece. And then there are more overt features that really signpost the thoughtfulness behind an item of clothing. Making sure that patterns match, for example, which, if you get wrong, is a far more visible red flag.
Embroidery is a sartorial flex that sits at the extreme of the latter. Do you need it to hold a shirt together, structurally at least? No. But if you’re going to have it, it has to be spot on. As a method of decorating cloth, it predates some articles of clothing as we know them. It exists wherever humans have, often deployed as a marker of status or regional identity. And while that heritage offers a lot to play with, there is no margin for error. We can see your working out.
The upswell in interest around crafty elements is all part in our wider move towards softer, more comfortable ways of living. However, to say that embroidery is having a moment in menswear perhaps ignores the fact that it has always been a part of us and our cultures. But if now is your time to plug in, then look to the designers that know what they’re doing.
01. The Kartik Research linen shirt
With Kartik Research, traditional manufacturing techniques have always been front and centre. While set up only in 2021, the founder Kartik Kumra has made a point of showcasing the deep well of knowledge that exists in his homeland of India. This shirt typifies the brand’s approach. The cut of this heirloom linen shirt skews towards a contemporary relaxed fit, while hand-applied beading nods to skills developed over many generations. Each piece, in Kumra’s words, puts “humanness” first, but this one especially you won’t find anywhere else – it’s exclusive to MR PORTER.
02. The Orlebar Brown camp-collar cotton shirt
Given that embroidery has been used to great effect by numerous peoples across the world, it can capture the idea of being from somewhere else. Which makes it the perfect signifier for a brand built around travel wear. Orlebar Brown, of course, sprung out of tailored swim shorts, but its wider collection also taps into vacation mode. This camp-collar shirt with paisley motifs offers a vaguely hippie-trail appeal, if more aligned with the more rarefied strata of resorts.
03. The SAINT Mxxxxxx convertible-collar satin shirt
If harking back to ancient methodologies isn’t your thing, this piece by SAINT Mxxxxxx takes a wry glance at mid-century Americana. Specifically, the vibe is casinos and bowling alleys, with an embroidered script logo, contrast piping and a royal flush on the back, for those who feel lucky. Well, do ya, punk?
04. The Kardo floral-embroidered silk-satin shirt
The New Delhi-based Kardo is another brand that leans into the legacy of Indian craftsmanship. This laid-back Rohit shirt is rendered from a luxurious silk, with a hand-stitched floral motif. The company works to a singular production framework, whereby each piece is hand-cut, sewn and finished by one artisan.
05. The Portuguese Flannel organic cotton shirt
Portuguese Flannel’s appreciation for the flora of the Guimarães region isn’t just for show, although it is very clearly on display here. The brand goes to great lengths to champion the local people and landscapes. The lower-impact materials used for this shirt also earn it entry into MR PORTER’s Consciously Crafted collection.
06. The Jacquemus striped cotton-poplin shirt
Another tongue-in-cheek take on the art of embroidery, this shirt by Jacquemus features a veritable salad of carrots, radishes and spring onions. The gardening theme runs through the brands collection, but this boxy, raglan-sleeved striped shirt is worth unearthing.