As I’m sure you know by now, I have been known to enjoy a bit of foraging in my spare time… Friends and family members will occasionally (read – always) poke fun, but the goading turns to praise when they get to sample all manner of wild flowers, berries and greens. I do realise, however, that spending your Sunday traipsing through overgrown grass isn’t everyone’s idea of a good time, nor is it always practical given the constraints of modern life – especially if you live in a city.

Fennel pollen, despite perhaps not being the most ubiquitous of wild ingredients, is definitely worth spending a little time and energy searching for, however. The pollen – or flowers – of the fennel plant are vivid green when young, then bright yellow and bursting with sweetness when they reach their peak. They are the epitome of summertime flavour. They can be tricky to find in the UK, although I have spotted them recently in parks, canal sides and open spaces across London, as well as on coastal paths and seaside areas on recent visits to the Kent, Sussex and Dorset coast.

For anyone heading further afield over the summer, wild fennel grows in abundance across Southern Europe. Anyone planning holidays in Spain, France, Italy and Croatia should keep an eye out for the crown-shaped spurs of sun-yellow fennel flowers and accompanying wispy, dark green fronds that shoot around them.

The flavour profile of fennel pollen is bright, aromatic and uniquely vibrant. A backbone of anise mixes with rich, honeyed top notes, making it a perfect accompaniment to both sweet and savoury Mediterranean-style dishes. The recipe below fuses fennel pollen with summer stone fruits and a creamy panna cotta, but it goes equally well with grilled fish, as a rub for brbecue meat, dusted on pasta dishes and used in baking.

And if you really can’t find the time to pick any of your own fronds – even while on holiday – it’s available in specialist food retailers, some health food shops and, of course, online.

For the panna cotta:

• 3 leaves gelatine
• 500ml double cream
• 150g caster sugar
• 1 vanilla pod
• 500ml buttermilk

For the apricots:

• 350ml white wine
• 350ml water
• 350ml caster sugar
• A few star anise
• 1kg apricots, halved and stoned

For the almond crumb:

• 125g butter, melted
• 100g ground almonds
• 150g plain flour
• 100g caster sugar
• A tsp sea salt 

To serve:

•  A sprinkling fennel pollen
• A drizzle olive oil

First, make the panna cotta. Soak the gelatine in cold water for five minutes. Bring the cream to the boil with the caster sugar and seeds from the vanilla pod. Drain and squeeze out the gelatine and whisk into the hot cream. Stir to combine and dissolve, then add the buttermilk. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve, and transfer into individual dariole moulds or a 20 x 15cm baking dish. Set aside to cool for six hours or overnight.

Now, poach the apricots. Mix the wine, water, sugar and anise together in a heavy-based saucepan and heat gently to dissolve the sugar. Add the apricots and simmer on a very low heat for 15 minutes or until the apricots are tender. Set aside and allow to cool completely.

Finally, make the crumb. Mix together all the ingredients in a mixing bowl and gently combine so the mixture has an uneven “gravel”-type texture. Bake at 170ºC for 20 minutes until just golden brown. Remove from the oven and cool completely.

To serve, remove the panna cotta from the mould by dipping into warm water (if using) or carefully take a spoonful out of the dish. Add a few pieces of apricot, as well as some of the poaching liquor. Sprinkle with fennel pollen and drizzle with olive oil. Add a spoonful or two of the crumb to one side.