Mr Jon Lewin shares his tips for creating authentic Sri Lankan food at home.

Sri Lanka’s stock as a holiday destination has soared in recent years. Even the most casual social media observer will have spotted its stunning surfing beaches, tea plantations and rickety trains all over their news feeds. Visitor numbers have doubled since 2012, with the island nation’s charming locals and vibrant food culture among the draws for adventurous travellers. Yet the subtleties of its cuisine haven’t always translated back to our shores.

Helping bring the island’s authentic flavours to a wider audience is the book The Locals Kitchen: Sri Lanka by chef, author and photographer Mr Jon Lewin. Having trained at Mr Raymond Blanc’s restaurant Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Mr Lewin fell in love with Sri Lanka on his travels and spent three years immersing himself in its culture and cuisine. The Locals Kitchen takes us on a hands-on journey through the country’s fragrant curries, hoppers, sambols and sides, accompanied by rich photography of Sri Lanka’s striking landscapes and Mr Lewin’s new culinary companions. We’ve picked out some of its key observations.

First up, Mr Lewin suggests some store-cupboard basics to get up to speed with Sri Lanka’s culinary culture. As well as advocating the benefits of fenugreek, goraka, fish flakes and lentil-like urid dal beans, he outlines some of the foundations of Sri Lankan cooking. “If the common base of Italian and French cooking is onion, celery and carrots, known as a sofrito or mirepoix, then in Sri Lankan cooking the base is usually green chilli, red onion, garlic and curry leaves,” he says.

It is common at mealtimes to serve curries and sambals with hoppers. Resembling bowl-shaped pancakes, these versatile staples are made with fermented rice flour and coconut and are often served with an egg at their centre. “String hoppers are a great alternative to rice and can be eaten anytime,” says Mr Lewin, whose concise recipes enable readers to assemble them at home with the help of a steamer. “They’re super light and spongy. They can be served hot or cold. Either way is fantastic.”

Heading to Sri Lanka? Mr Lewin recommends embracing the street-food snacks or “short eats” on offer, which include rotis, rolls and barbecue chicken. “Street food is available all over the island, from the small shacks on the roadside to the carts that trundle through the streets day and night,” he says. “The tantalising combination of spices and flavours makes Sri Lankan street food unique.” One easy short eat to make at home is Mr Lewin’s chillied fruits. Dice some pineapple, mango and papaya and coat with a combination of chilli powder, black pepper, salt and sugar. Add a squeeze of lime to finish.

Do as the locals do and ditch your knife and fork, says Mr Lewin. “Aside from the cultural reasons for this, the food tastes better eaten this way,” he says. “Without any lingering plastic or metallic taste from cutlery, you can enjoy Sri Lanka’s finest dishes at their best.” Take your right hand and group your fingers together, mix the food together with your fingers and thumb and gather into a bite-sized ball, before scooping the ball up onto your fingers towards your fingertips, drawing your thumb back towards your palm and pushing the ball into your mouth.

At the heart of many dishes in Sri Lanka’s coastal regions is malu, Sinhalese for fish, something Mr Lewin dedicates a whole chapter to in his book. “There are many fish vendors who deliver door to door,” he says. “They travel on bicycles with boxes full of ice and fresh fish strapped to the back, crying out, ‘Malu, malu, malu!’ as they cycle past. I love to go down to the local harbour at sunrise, when the fishermen return with their night’s catch. They lay it out and the loud hustle of the bartering begins.”

Below, Mr Lewin shares a recipe for one of his favourite fish curries, which uses either mackerel or seer fish.

Prep time: 15 minutes. Cooking time: 15 minutes. Spice rating: 2/5. Serves 4

500g mackerel fillets, cut into 2cm chunks 3 cloves of garlic, sliced 4-5 fresh green chillies, roughly chopped 5 shallots, finely chopped 2 tomatoes, diced 1 sprig fresh curry leaves 1 tsp curry powder ½ tsp roasted fenugreek seeds, crushed ½ tsp turmeric ½ cinnamon stick 7.5cm piece of rampe (pandan leaf) 3 pieces goraka (soaked in hot water for 20 minutes) 1 x 400ml tin coconut milk ½ lime (juice of) 1½ tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper Handful of fresh coriander (optional)

Put all the ingredients except the coconut milk, lime juice, seasoning and coriander in a saucepan and mix together. Place on a medium heat and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the coconut milk, reduce the heat to low and cook for 5 more minutes, or until the oil starts to separate. Take off the heat and allow to cool slightly, then add the lime juice and stir to mix. Season to taste and finish with a handful of coriander leaves, if using, then serve.

The Locals Kitchen: Sri Lanka (Eat Media) by Mr Jon Lewin is out now