THE JOURNAL
Bross Bagels, 105 Leith Walk, Edinburgh. Photograph by Mr Marc Millar, courtesy of Bross Bagels
The latest openings in the Scottish capital.
A new wave of restaurants has crashed onto the Edinburgh food scene, unsettling the recent influx of London chains. Each new opening has had the good sense to use the impeccable local produce Scotland is noted for, yet the teams behind them aren’t afraid to draw on ideas and influences from around the world. From new Nordic cuisine to Chilean home cooking and Montreal bagels, these chefs and entrepreneurs are drawing inspiration from the food they love, reimagining it using Scottish ingredients and serving it with a flourish. Here are five new Edinburgh restaurants worth seeking out.
Fhior
Chicken, mushroom, barley, lovage at Fhior. Photograph by Mr Alan Donaldson, courtesy of Fhior
Despite opening just a few weeks ago, it’s already impossible to talk about modern Scottish dining without mentioning Fhior and acclaimed chef Mr Scott Smith, former chef-patron and creative force behind the award-winning Norn. The team want their food to be accessible, playful and light-hearted. This attitude extends to the pared-back interior, relaxed service and humorous artwork by Ms Sarah Sheard. The menu relies on a trusted team of local suppliers and foragers. Choose from a four- or seven-course menu, usually kept secret from the diner until the food is served, and enjoy highlights such as cod with oyster and white currants, lamb with onion and sea buckthorn, and lobster with rhubarb and cucumber.
83 Hanover Street
Burrata, coriander seeds, watercress, apple at 83 Hanover Street. Photograph by Mr Stevie J Singh, courtesy of 83 Hanover Street
The charcuterie is from East Coast Cured, the cheese is from IJ Mellis, the teas are from Eteaket, all practically down the road from this vibrant new restaurant on Hanover Street, yet the flavours are decidedly Chilean. Owner Mr Juan José Castillo Castro, former Gleneagles restaurant manager and owner of acclaimed Edinburgh bar 99 Hanover Street, has taken inspiration from his mother’s home cooking. The sopaipillas (Chilean pumpkin bread) with pebre (a salsa reminiscent of chimichurri) are a must. Follow with a flurry of small plates such as ceviche, lamb croquettes, beef short rib and charred octopus.
The Little Chartroom
Pork selection, heritage carrots, onions and hispi cabbage at The Little Chartroom. Photograph courtesy of The Little Chartroom
What makes a great neighbourhood restaurant? Simple but delicious food? A warm, welcoming atmosphere? Friendly staff? Whatever it is, The Little Chartroom has it in spades. This tiny bistro on Leith Walk, run by chef Ms Roberta Hall and her partner Mr Shaun McCarron, has a short, seasonal menu with the kind of dishes you constantly crave: soothing chicken broth with charred sweetcorn and spring onion, raw wild sea trout with gooseberries, tagliatelle with wild mushrooms, peas, capers and walnut. Ms Hall was formerly the head chef at Castle Terrace, so expect an attention to detail that comes from someone who is classically trained.
Le Roi Fou
Oyster Rockafeller at Le Roi Fou. Photograph by OH! Taste, courtesy of Le Roi Fou
Chef Mr Jérôme Henry may have been born in France, and spent years at the stoves at Les Trois Garçons and Mosimann’s private club in London, but it’s in Edinburgh where he’s made his home and opened his first solo venture. There’s a sense of his heritage in the menu – seared foie gras, homemade terrine and hand-cut steak tartare all feature – but Scottish produce takes centre stage: Isle of Skye scallops, Hebridean crab and Belhaven smoked trout are paired with whatever looks best at the local market that day. The service is impeccable and there’s an excellent wine list to work your way through – a easy task in the serene surroundings designed by artist Ms Isolde Nash.
Bross Bagels
Vegan tuna special with posh pickles and smashed avocado at Bross Bagels. Photograph by Mr Marc Millar, courtesy of Bross Bagels
People travel far for a good bagel in New York and Montreal, so owner Ms Larah Bross wasn’t surprised when customers started making pilgrimages to her first bagel shop on Portobello High Street. It proved so popular she’s opened a second place on Leith Walk. Try the Porty to make the most of local ingredients: hot smoked salmon from Welch Fishmongers and organic Crowdie cream cheese from Connage Highland Dairy with fresh dill and pickles. Listen out for the bell that chimes when bagels are coming out hot and fresh. They’ll also deliver and there’s even a hole in the wall open from midnight to 5.00am for late-night snacking.
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