Fresh drinks to match the weather.

Spring is great, isn’t it? The birdsong, the lack of coat, the pheromones on the breeze... Somehow, you know winter has to end sometime, but it’s still always surprising when it does.

The first hints of evening brightness always make me want to change my drinking habits; banish those heavy winter reds and slip into something fresh and effervescent.

For the last couple of years, my go-to spring drink has been a glass of French vermouth made interesting by a tot of green Chartreuse, a squeeze of lime and a splash of fizzy water. I happened upon the combination one Pancake Day when I was attempting to make the magnificent dish, crêpes Chartreuse, which involves crushing up meringues and macarons within a buttery pancake, dousing in green Chartreuse, (aka the finest liqueur known to man) and setting it all on fire. And then eating it.

I haven’t attempted that again, but I’ve often returned to the cocktail: a grassier, fresher alternative to a gin and tonic; or drinking man’s Aperol spritz, if you like. And if you’re fresh out of Chartreuse (it happens a lot in my household), it’s no disaster. I’ve found it’s one of those useful template cocktails, where pretty much every part can be subbed out for an equivalent. As it turns out, 50ml vermouth + 10ml sweetness + squeeze of citrus + fizzy water = hard to mess up.

Vermouth, fortified wine infused with herbs and spices (notably gentian and quinquina), is usually a supporting player in cocktails. It plays that role in each of the holy trinity: the Manhattan, martini and negroni. But sometimes it deserves its own starring role, too. There are now many excellent new producers – Belsazar from Germany, El Bandarra from Spain, Mancino from Italy – to rival the classic Italian and French houses such as Carpano, Cocchi, Martini Rosso, Noilly Prat and Dolin. Online retailer Master of Malt reports a 94 per cent rise in year-on-year sales. Meanwhile Spanish-style vermuterias are beginning to gain ground in the UK, too: witness the glorious wall of antique vermouths on display at Vermuteria in Coal Drops Yard in King’s Cross.

In Spain, vermouth is often served with an olive and/or a lemon slice, plus a splash of soda water. It’s a simple, refreshing sip, but a little sweetness and a touch of tartness turn it into something truly special. You can introduce sweetness by way of a liqueur, such as Cointreau, crème de cassis or Campari, or equally with something non-alcoholic such as honey or elderflower cordial. Lime, orange or grapefruit work as well as lemon. And you can go as fancy as you like for the garnish, although rosemary or thyme will do. Be sure not to add too much water, just a splash will do, as in a spritz.

I like my cocktails like this: simple, elegant and infinitely adaptable. They definitely put a spring in your step.

50ml French vermouth (eg, Dolin Dry) 10ml green Chartreuse 25ml fizzy water 1 wedge of lime 1 drop of absinthe (optional)

Stir everything together in a wine glass over plentiful ice, drop in the lime wedge and garnish with mint leaves, if you fancy. The drop of absinthe isn’t essential, but does lift the whole thing.

50ml Italian vermouth (eg, Carpano Antica Formula) 10ml Fernet Branca 25ml fizzy water 1 wedge of blood orange

Stir everything together in a wine glass over ice, drop in the orange wedge and serve. This is inspired by the aperitif culture of Buenos Aires, where vermouth and Fernet are both wildly popular.

50ml sweet white vermouth (eg, Mancino bianco ambrato) 10ml crème de pêche 25ml fizzy water 1 wedge of lemon

Stir everything together in a wine glass over ice, drop in the lemon and serve. Fresh rosemary or thyme make a nice herbal garnish to offset the sweetness. Mancino is a relatively new Italian vermouth house that makes an excellent sweet white vermouth; Lillet blanc, Cocchi Americano and Martini riserva speciale ambrato are all good as well. Peach cordial works just fine in place of the liqueur, too.