Five pilsners you should try now.

Two Pints Of Lager And A Packet Of Crisps, cooking lager, lager louts shouting “Lager, lager, lager”. Lager has gained a pretty low reputation, thanks to international brewery conglomerates, which, over the past few decades, have pushed their bland products into every market at the lowest price. But mostly, what passes for lager outside central Europe is at best an approximation.

Without getting too technical – that would surely sully the simple pleasure of lager – the word means “store” in German, and refers to beer that has been kept at low temperatures to clarify it and develop flavours. It’s not all golden. The ubiquitous style is properly called pilsner, after the Czech city of Plzeň, where it was invented in 1842, but lager can be black or amber, easy drinking or just-the-one strong. It’s enough to make you reach for a plain old Carling. (Don’t.)

There are several reasons why mass-produced lager became the booze of choice from Manchester to Manila. Its inoffensiveness suits international palates, modern chilling technology has made it easier to produce and serve, and it goes down smooth. But good lager is hard to make. West Beer in Glasgow is the only British brewery to subscribe to the strict Reinheitsgebot (German Beer Purity Law), so uses only barley, water, hops and yeast. “The subtlety in flavour of lager yeast and the end goal of drinkability mean that, more often than not, there are fewer big, bold flavours to hide flaws behind,” says head brewer Mr Simon Roberts. “Also, because of the refrigeration needed, slower fermentation and lagering time at low temperatures, it generally takes longer to make, usually at a greater cost.”

There was a time when lager was a gateway to supposedly more flavoursome ales. Now craft beer buffs need converting back to lager. Because, let’s face it, is there anything better on a summer’s day? As well as the timeless pale varieties from Germany and the Czech Republic, and those inspired by them, there’s a huge range of beer under the lager banner. “In the craft beer movement, people often think lager is dull or staid,” says Mr Roberts. “Not so. There are lots of hoppy pilsners showcasing New World hops. Alternatively, try dunkel, especially in winter with food, or the caramel notes of Vienna lager. If you really want to see how off-piste lager can be, grab a smoked German rauchbier. Bacon lovers take heed.” We’ll have two. And, go on then, a packet of crisps.

Bernard Sváteční Ležák

It’s hard to find a bad pilsner in the Czech Republic, but this modern classic from a family-owned brewery stands out. Unpasteurised and unfiltered, it’s supremely refreshing with enough crispness to make you order another.

bernard.cz

**Augustinerbräu Lagerbier Hell **

From Munich, hell or helles is a mild-mannered, less hoppy type of lager. This is 5.2 per cent ABV and has a jolly fat monk on the label. Simple but heavenly.

beersofeurope.co.uk

Paulaner Zwickl

The best place to try the naturally cloudy zwicklbier, or kellerbier (cellar beer), is in a sunny Bavarian beer garden. Paulaner Zwickl is made in Munich with native Hersbrucker hops for a bold tartness.

paulaner.com

Ayinger Bavarian Pils

German brewers copied the pilsner style from the Czech Republic, and this is one of their best. It’s complex and soft with a gently floral bite from the noble hops. A benchmark.

ayinger.de

West Beer Dunkel

Lager comes in many hues, and Glasgow brewery West, founded by a German, Ms Petra Wetzel, makes a traditional dark Bavarian dunkel (double). It has rich, mahogany flavours but remains approachable and quaffable.

westbeer.com

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