How to carve a leg of Spanish ham the proper way.

Forget the current furore over gammon: the only pork we’re interested in is a great leg of jamón. Thin slices of the burnished pink, dry-cured Spanish ham, a glass of manzanilla fino sherry, and a handful of buttery marcona almonds are just the thing to get an evening off to a great start. London’s Brindisa has been importing the jamón sold at its London restaurants and delis for more than 30 years, and it’s set to share the secrets behind the prized ingredient this month with the opening of a dedicated ham school at their Borough Market shop. Students can learn the time-honoured art of slicing jamón, wielding the foot-long cuchillo jamonero knife under the instruction of Brindisa’s master carvers. We asked founder Ms Monika Linton to share some professional know-how: the ideal excuse to make a leg of jamón the talking point at your next gathering.

“Jamón is such an important part of the culinary identity in Spain,” says Ms Linton. “We’ve eaten it since Roman times: there are references to the quality of the meat in literature from this time.” The cured ham is made by a simple salting and hanging process, and there are two varieties: ibérico and serrano. “Jamón ibérico comes from the meat of indigenous black-footed pata negra ibérico pigs in the southwest of Spain, whereas jamón serrano is made from domesticated white pigs,” says Ms Linton. “Serrano is aged for a minimum of six months; ibérico for 24 months, creating more complex flavours and aromas.”

Much like wine, jamón’s flavour varies depending on the terroir in which it’s produced. “It’s best to eat the ham in the place it has come from, as there’s a correlation between the climate and the product,” says Ms Linton. “Hams from Huelva [in southwestern Spain] and Extremadura [a western region bordering Portugal], for example, have a more intensely savoury flavour profile.”  Jamón ibérico is made under strictly controlled conditions, within a tightly regulated Denomination of Origin area in the Iberian Peninsula (look out for meat labelled “DOP”). The result is a ham with a distinctive nutty, complex flavour and soft, silky texture. There are different grades of ibérico, but jamón ibérico de bellota, made with meat from free-range pigs which roam in oak forests, and cured for a minimum of 36 months, is the purest example – and a real treat. Jamón serrano, meaning “from the mountain range”, is more commonly produced and eaten throughout Spain, but it’s no less delicious. Choose good-quality from a traceable source, such as the mild-flavoured Jamón de Teruel, from the mountainous Aragon region. In the UK, you’ll find the good stuff in quality Spanish delis, including Brindisa’s Borough Market shop.

A sharp knife is crucial. Choose a specially designed cuchillo jamonero carving knife, with a long, flexible blade and easy-to-grip handle. “We use Arcos knives,” says Ms Linton. “You’re using a sharp blade, not a saw, so cut in one direction. Angle the blade slightly to allow you to cut the meat, but then flatten it out, carving horizontally. Generally, you should use the bottom half of the blade for greater control. Slice thin, bite-sized pieces so you can enjoy the full flavour of the meat.” Another important tool, says Ms Linton, is “a sturdy rotating stand to hold the ham leg to make carving accurately easier”.

With meat this good, it’s best to keep it simple. “I’d always serve jamón as a starter,” says Ms Linton. “Some would pair it with melon, but I prefer the let the ham do the talking, and serve acorn-fed jamón ibérico on its own, so guests can appreciate the remarkable raw quality of the meat.” Some simple pan con tomate or breadsticks are all that’s needed alongside. “To drink, a dry, fino-style sherry, is perfect as it cleanses the palette after the rich meat,” says Ms Linton. “Soft, fruity red wines pair well with milder ibérico hams, while bolder riojas from Priorat or La Rioja or Ribero del Duero can hold up against two-to-four-year cured hams from Andalusia and Extremadura.” The morning after, indulge in a blowout post-party brunch: “jamón works really well with fried eggs and potatoes for a luxurious breakfast” says Ms Linton.

If you’ve gone the whole hog and bought a leg of jamón, store leftovers in a cool, dry and ventilated place, resting on the holder. “The jamón keep for up to three months, but it tastes best consumed straight away,” says Ms Linton. Cover the part you’ve sliced with cling film to stop oxidation. If you have lots to use up, throw into a hearty Spanish-style butterbean and tomato stew, toss through cooked pasta, or add to an omelette to bring the joy of jamón into an everyday dinner.

Brindisa Borough Market The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, Borough Market, London, SE1 9AF ** _brindisa.com**_